I am doing a renovation that will involve taking down walls--replacing drywall in some cases with new drywall and in others with tile (in the bathroom). As long as I am taking apart the walls, I would like to install sound proofing.

Soundproofing generally consists of 3 layers, a layer of lead about 0.25" thick sandwiched between two porous sheets which are usually either plywood or gypsum board/drywall. It is also possible to have a 2-ply soundproofing where the lead sheet is affixed to a single porous layer.

So, in terms of installing this, the normal recommendation I see is that the sound proofing be used as the wall itself, so you just screw the soundproofing into the studs, just like normal drywall. The only problem with this is that if a 3-layer solution is being used, then the wall will be much thicker than normal, so that might affect the way electrical cutouts are made.

The other option would be to make 16" panels that would fit between the studs. In this case, the question would be how the panels are attached to the studs. Also, since the electrical will use EMT conduit, there is the problem of trying to install the sound proofing panels in a way that will not conflict with the EMT and water pipes, which might require extra wide walls.

Does anybody have experience with this kind of installation and can comment on best practices?

  • What level of sound proofing are you after? Will you be setting up a music studio type of thing, or are you just looking to cut down on some of the noises you hear between rooms? Regular insulation may be all you need...
    – mmathis
    Commented Dec 6, 2018 at 23:01
  • Are you trying to hide kryptonite? Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 0:55
  • 2
    nuclead.com/soundproofing.html. Never heard of lead soundproofing maybe I have it in my house and didn’t know! This link is very informative
    – Kris
    Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 2:37
  • 2
    Possible duplicate of Assemble lead sheet to be tight, but able to be disassembled Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 12:38
  • @ThreePhaseEel That question pertains to a free standing structure that needs to be DISASSEMBLED as it says in the title. This is for a fixed, permanent structure in a wall. The two questions have nothing to do with one another. Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 13:01

2 Answers 2


Well, what we ended up doing is cutting the sheets into pieces that fit into the bays between the joists. So, the cross section looks like this:

enter image description here

An acoustic caulk was used between the sound proofing layer and the joist flanges.

The result was very effective. There is no sound transmission between the two rooms through the floor. It also made the floor much more stable. I can jump up and down on the floor, no vibration at all.


Lead for soundproofing???

I’ve never used lead for soundproofing, only as x-ray barrier in medical offices.

Here is a website that gives various types of soundproofing for walls. It starts on page 20 and has ceiling applications too. (Sound OVER walls is often the weak link to soundproofing rooms.)


I’d recommend “resilient channels” (which give an air gap in the wall) rather than a lead sheet.

BTW, you may not be able to surf the internet in your bathroom, if you use a lead sheet barrier.

Also, other tips would be to not have electrical outlets back to back in walls. They should be separated by at least one stud space. I’d wrap recessed light fixtures with gypsum board too, but make sure they’re rated to be “encapsulated”.

  • Does not answer the question. Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 1:07
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    @TylerDurden Sure it does: How to Install lead for soundproofing? You don’t. Lead is not used for soundproofing.
    – Lee Sam
    Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 3:07
  • @LeeSam see the link I put in my comment on the OP lead is used as a sound proofing material
    – Kris
    Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 4:33
  • @Kris I stand corrected. I learned something today. +1 to you...I wish you’d make this an answer.
    – Lee Sam
    Commented Dec 7, 2018 at 6:03

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