I have bought a TP-LINK (HS200) wall light switch to replace several switches.

The first switch I tried is controlled an outlet that I have a a lamp connected to it. The outlet is configured as follows:

  • Bare copper wire: Ground
  • Black wire: live, shows about ~120V AC multi-meter regardless of switch's position.
  • Red wire: load, shows few mVs when OFF, and ~120V AC when the switch is ON.
  • Inside the outlet box there are 3-white wires bundled all together with a wire-nut at the end (assumed to be neutral lines).

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I have connected the TP-LINK HS200 to the wires as they are marked/named on the back of the switch. When I returned power to the switch the lamp flickers really fast on low light, when the switch is supposedly switched on the flickering is a little brighter and the white circle LED light on the switch is ON. The WiFi icon on the switch goes orange on and off regardless of switch's state (as I did not configure it yet).

enter image description here

I called TP-LINK customer support and they barely speak English. I emailed her pictures of my wiring, and she told me someone would call me back within 30 minutes. It has been a day and yet no one called. So that route of help is gone.

I have tried two HS200 switches thinking one was faulty, and got the same result. I have swapped the Live/Load wires and got the same result.

How should it be wired to work properly?

  • 1
    does it work with a tungsten bulb?
    – dandavis
    Commented Dec 4, 2018 at 18:19
  • Yes. I am going to answer my own question. It was the neutral wire. Commented Dec 10, 2018 at 15:15
  • 1
    KingsInnerSoul- I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!! We have been pulling our hair out all day over the same issue, and finally stumbled across this page. Implemented your fix, and now it's working perfectly. Thank you for doing God's work. ;) CHEERS!
    – user100986
    Commented Apr 28, 2019 at 4:07

1 Answer 1


The light (LED or bulb) was flickering really fast. I found out that the White Neutral Wire was at fault. Wrong wiring caused the neutral line to float and be tied to return to the electrical box. Once I tied the entire bundle of the neutral wires together, the switched worked perfectly.

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