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I am used to working with PVC and CPVC, but these are copper pipes that I am thinking about adding in a water cooler that needs a water line. My question is, obviously I can't use the CPVC scissor like cutters to cut copper piping, so how would I cut the copper piping to add in a tee with 3 connections - one that goes up, one down to continue the flow as normal, and one that will come out that I can connect to the water cooler?

Thanks in advance all!

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All depends on you. You can cut the pipe with a hacksaw, Sawzall, a copper tubing cutter like these: enter image description here enter image description here You might have to cut a length of pipe out to fit your valve. You could also use a piercing valve.

I don't endorse these products although good.

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    I will add that you should (must by code in my locale) ream the cut pipe to remove the internal burr created by the cutting process. – Jimmy Fix-it Nov 30 '18 at 15:53
  • Since you don't know which tool to use (it's OK, that's why you're here), here are some instructions: 1) put cutter around pipe. 2) tighten cutter until blade just touches pipe. 3) rotate cutter in a complete circle around pipe. 4) Tighten cutter blade slightly. 5) repeat 3 & 4 until you've cut through. – FreeMan Nov 30 '18 at 18:26
  • I'll add that I used a larger pipe cutter like the first image in a tight space (under a kitchen sink) and the result wasn't great. I couldn't make full revolutions, so there was a bit of pipe remaining that I bent off. This slightly changed the shape of the pipe end, requiring a lot more screwing around to get the compression fittings on. I suggest the smaller cutter if you're low on space. – calcium3000 Nov 30 '18 at 19:17
  • I certainly wouldn't endorse a piercing valve! – Harper Dec 1 '18 at 0:04
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Got too long for a comment but after cutting the pipe with a pipe cutter or hacksaw and reaming this process can improve your odds of a good leak free joint.

Since you are new to copper I will leave this comment to help you get a good sweat joint. When sweating copper pipes use plumbers cloth or a light sandpaper to clean the varnish off the fittings. The pipe has to be dry to get a good seal on the solder. I will pull the crust off white bread and pack the pipe on both sides to prevent moisture from getting to the joint and causing a leak. Flux the joint and use a non-lead solder, heat the joint and apply the solder. You are looking for it to wick into the joint and leave a slight filet of solder. With the joint completed and your shut off valve installed pull the aerator off the closest faucet and flush the bread out. I use this method with repairs and never have had leaks but have seen problems from 1 drop of water in the past where they used fernco hubs to seal the leak and they later failed. I use this procedure and repair with no leaks.

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It is definitely worth learning to solder if you're going to do a lot of work with copper pipe, but if you only work with it once in a while, the slip on type fittings such as Sharkbite work very well with less chance of error. Even if you're proficient with solder, the slip on fittings have a big advantage for maintenance - you can work on wet pipes.

Slip on fittings are much more expensive than solder fittings but if you're doing just one or two fittings well worth the extra cost.

I find that a good tubing cutter is preferable to a hacksaw when using these fittings, because the tubing cutter makes it easy to make a perfectly square cut. I won't recommend a brand due to site policies, just ask around about what brand is best.

A fitting such as the Sharkbit slip tee fitting can be installed in just a few minutes to install a water cooler:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOl-hJkadVM

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