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Looking for some quick suggestions if the issue I am facing is electrical or oven related.

I have a gas oven (not sure on age, bought house last year) that for the last month has been tripping my GFCI when I use the oven(not when I use the gas burners). It was plugged into it's own outlet and was tripping the GFCI at the outlet to the side of the oven. I plugged the oven directly into this GFCI outlet, still trips. Had an electrician replace the GFCI outlet, still having the issue.

Now here's the thing, if I plug the outlet in across the kitchen(using heavy duty extension cord), no tripping. This leads me to think it's electrical, but the electrician swore if the GFCI didn't fix it, it's an oven issue. Any ideas? Just don't want to have to pay 2 service call fees if I can avoid it.

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    Is "the outlet in across the kitchen" a GFCI outlet, or do you know if it is connected downstream from a GFCI outlet or breaker? If the answer is "no", then your electrician is probably correct and your oven has an issue and the GFCI is trying to protect you from it. – brhans Nov 14 '18 at 15:03
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    Here,s a simple test. 2-prong appliances can't trip GFCIs without help, so let's try the oven as a 2-prong appliance. They make 3-prong cheaters designed to fit 3-prong plugs into 2-prong outlets. You're supposed to attach the ear to the center screw of the outlet, but for this test, do not. Tape it up so it's isolated. Plug in your oven via that, danger: this will probably electrify the chassis of the oven since you are defeating the ground. Does it still trip the GFCI? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Nov 14 '18 at 18:56
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A combination oven/cooktop will have separate ignition methods for the burners (cooktop) and the oven.

The burners usually have a simple spark ignition. If your cooktop "clicks" when you turn on a burner, that is the spark ignition, which is totally normal.

The oven may use spark ignition but will often use a a glow bar. If the insulation is wearing out (can happen over time in the heat of an oven) or there is a loose connection, then there may be leakage to ground in the oven igniter/glow bar, tripping the GFCI.

The key is that the oven & cooktop are independent. This is different from the old days where a single pilot light would be used to ignite both the cooktop and the oven. Modern ovens don't use pilot lights because they burn gas - and your money - all the time.

If you can find instructions online for your specific oven, you may be able to remove the igniter/glow bar/etc. and replace it. The catch is that damage may not be obvious, and it is also possible the problem is in the controls and not the igniter or glow bar. But the problem is pretty definitely somewhere in the oven.

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