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How can I scribe this very curved sink? I want to fill the gap. Bought the cabinet as you see it. I can remove the small 3/4' thick rectangular piece (it is pocket screwed in). The ultimate goal it to close that gap to maker t look like the sink is built in to the cabinet.

My Sink

I want it to look like this:

This is what I want

  • I hope the filler that needs to be cut is held with screws, the fastener at the bottom will defiantly be in the way. Cutting it while not installed is a big plus, more later. – Jack Nov 12 '18 at 14:45
  • I want to fill the gap. Bought the cabinet as you see it. I can remove the small 3/4' thick rectangular piece ( it is pocket screwed in) – Marinaio Nov 12 '18 at 15:10
  • ultimate goal it to close that gap to maker t look like the sink is built in to the cabinet – Marinaio Nov 12 '18 at 15:12
  • 4
    @Jack: "the fastener at the bottom will defiantly be in the way" - I think that when hardware starts giving you this kind of attitude it should be removed completely. – A. I. Breveleri Nov 12 '18 at 15:54
  • Spell check did not do me justice on that one, my eyes either. You may have guessed, it was supposed to say definitely – Jack Nov 13 '18 at 5:11
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Start by making a template.

Using a dry-erase marker, draw a line on the sink where it will meet the new cabinet cutout. You can hold a ruler flat against the rectangular piece shown in the photo to guide the marker.

Temporarily remove the currently installed rectangle and replace it with a rectangle of material from which the template will be cut.

Cut a short length of scrap material (e.g. paint stirrer) to bridge the widest part of the gap, plus a quarter inch or so. Keeping this bridge strictly horizontal and flat against the rectangle, trace the marker line on the sink with one end. The other end will describe a path on the rectangle; mark this path with your carpenter's pencil.

The line on the sink is to help you keep the end of the bridge in the plane of the rectangle surface, especially where the gap is widest.

After cutting the template along the pencil line, match it against the line on the sink and trim it for a tight fit.

2

Thanks to all of your comments I completed this task. Here is what I did:

  1. Bought a $5 compass from Ocean State job lots
  2. tacked a small 1/4" lauan to the side, butting against the sink
  3. Transferred the curve to the lauan. Did this about 6 times until happy
  4. Cut the curve with skill saw about 80 degrees, gently sanded the curve to the line with a pwr sander, tested the curve, sanded again - repeat until happy
  5. Used that template on a 3/4" ply scarp then painstakingly repeated step 4 on the real piece.
  6. Accepted that OK was "good enough" and quit!

That took me a day, the other side took about an hour.

When I'm ready I will pocket screw it in and paint it.

This is what I ended up with

  • 1
    Looks great! Add a bead of caulk in there and you won't notice its not from the factory! – Jeff Widmer Nov 19 '18 at 20:24
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I would first start by not doing this and acquiring a more appropriate sink, as it'll probably be a real nuisance if it needs any maintenance.

However, the next steps for what you want would be:

  • Take a photo of your sink from the front with a ruler nearby
  • Use a an image-editing tool to size up a mask for the edge
  • Print out your image, cut the line, and see how it fits (it may take more than one sheet of paper)
  • Make any needed adjustments, and use it as a template for a few more (the other side is a mirror, mistakes, etc.)
  • Paste your template onto a test piece or if you're brave the cabinet part you intend to use
  • Cut with a scroll saw, following the line
  • 3
    Scribing parts to fit is a very common carpentry task that is done on site without the help of any image editing tools. Recommending that someone return a product simply because the installation is not straightforward is not very helpful. Following this advice, most cabinets would have to be returned because floors are not installed perfectly level, yet we want the counter top to be as level as can be while having the toe-kick of the cabinet sit tight against the floor. Neither are walls perfectly flat (especially old walls), yet we want any exposed cabinet end to be flush with the wall. – FreeMan Nov 12 '18 at 19:33
  • A little comedy goes a long way. They obviously can scribe it, but they may have a terrible time getting to the back of this type of sink if they've built a cabinet around it. Additionally, they purchased the cabinet, not the sink (which presumably is the incumbent)! – ti7 Nov 12 '18 at 19:43
  • I'd definitely recommend using image editing software for any type of "I want an unusual shape that I mostly know", as it really saves on materials and bending into awkward measuring positions. – ti7 Nov 12 '18 at 19:47
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    Working on projects at my own house with a computer just around the corner I'd never think to fire up a PhotoShop-like software. I'd use scrap to save expensive material, and, well, bending into awkward positions to measure something just comes with the territory. Likely, one could fit the sink to the cabinet prior to the installation of either. And I'll still stand by the statement that recommending fixtures (cabinet or sink) be returned just because the desired installed outcome is difficult isn't good advice. – FreeMan Nov 12 '18 at 19:52
  • + Freeman, when I started in the trades the printing devices available to us were typewriter & pencils. Exposing part of this sink if we'll done can add value to the home. – Ed Beal Nov 12 '18 at 19:53

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