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My ceiling fan light stopped working in my kitchen. I thought one of the sockets broke so I bought a new light kit. Installed it ...correctly...and still no light. There is a remote control receiver attached to the fan that can control both but since replacing the light kit would it still work with the remote ? Or would I need to remove the remote receiver? I checked for all loose wires and tripped breakers. I have no idea what’s wrong. Any suggestions?

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    Model # of fan? – manassehkatz Nov 6 '18 at 20:35
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    Is there a common power cable to the remote receiver--black hot and neutral white so that (assuming the fan works) you know line hot and neutral are getting to the receiver? If so, then the easiest thing to check next is to use a voltmeter on the light output side of the receiver. If you get no voltage on the light output side of the receiver it could be the sending unit or the receiver. The sending unit might not be sending the correct signal to turn on the light or the receiver might not be responding. – Jim Stewart Nov 6 '18 at 21:28
  • Easiest and most systematic approach is to follow answer of @Ed Beal and remove the light kit and see if you are getting voltage across the hot (usu blue) and the neutral going into the light kit. – Jim Stewart Nov 6 '18 at 22:24
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    If you get no voltage, then check above the current limiter. – Jim Stewart Nov 6 '18 at 22:38
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Modern ceiling fans have a current limiter for the lights these regularly fail. I have replaced them and bypassed , but this is possibly the failure point since the new light kit did not work.

  • Is the current limiter is separate from the light kit or is it part of a light kit? If you replaced the light kit would you be replacing the current limiter? – Jim Stewart Nov 6 '18 at 21:45
  • Not on the ones I have fixed it is in the junction box above the light. The wires come down from there I think they are trying to hide it as it was easy to bypass er um replace. – Ed Beal Nov 6 '18 at 22:03
  • Could you describe what the current limiter look like? So the OP would remove the light kit and use a VOM or a non-contact voltage tester on the hot lead to the light kit? – Jim Stewart Nov 6 '18 at 22:21
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    look up. PW-190 power limiter. Tiny black box with 3 wires. There are some older 2 leg models that use bimetalic spring contacts that when hot they open those are the only 2 types I have seen. – Ed Beal Nov 6 '18 at 22:28
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    You are correct Jim but as a professional electrician I could end up in court for modifying a ul listed device if something happened. – Ed Beal Nov 6 '18 at 22:35

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