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MODEL: Rheem Fury 6yr 22V30F MANUFACTURE DATE: 31 May 2012

I replaced the Thermocouple, and made sure all connections were good, and secure, replaced the Gasket for the inner panel. This is a Natural Gas unit, and the wall furnace that is on the same line is working fine. Furnace is less than 8 feet of line from the Water Heater. Gas supply good.

I can light the pilot, and it stays on. As long as I do not turn the unit to the "ON" position, the pilot will stay on. As soon as the unit goes to on, and the primary gas flow starts, it will all light for a few seconds, then it is like it burns itself out. Almost like there is too much gas pressure, but that should not be the case as it has been working like a champ since I moved in here.

Any advice would be appreciated.

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3 Answers 3

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Check the flue area from above the flame to the flue pipe, the flue pipe, and the chimney for any type of blockage or flow restriction such as a build up of dirt, rust, soot, or even a bird that may have gotten into the flue pipe or chimney.If you do not get rid of the burned gases the flame will go out slowly as the available oxygen is depleted. It is also possible to have a bad heater control, but I would check the flue first. The problem is probably not the thermocouple since a thermocouple will still produce voltage for some time after it's flame goes away.

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  • I had the same problem once and it my case it was the control board, but you are right that he should check the airflow first to be sure that's not the issue. Commented Nov 1, 2018 at 14:31
  • Okay, so I removed the flue completely. It is clear, all the way up. Found the intake grill on the side, used the compressor, and blew it out. Nothing really came out at all. Still the same issue, it lights for a few seconds, then like it burns out. The gas is NOT turning off, it is being starved for oxygen I think.
    – Shadoe Kat
    Commented Nov 3, 2018 at 16:54
  • Did you check the area between the burners and the furnace outlet for a blockage? Also, you may need to have a service tech check the burner's manifold pressure to make sure that the unit is not getting too much gas from say a bad gas pressure regulator
    – d.george
    Commented Nov 4, 2018 at 11:33
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I had this same issue today with my direct-vent gas water heater. In my case, the problem was a variation of what d.george mentioned above: The direct vent system (which leads to the outside) had apparently collected enough rainwater from severe storms in the bottom of the water heater that the vent system (underneath the burner) had slowly filled with water until it was basically blocked. With that vent being blocked by water, the system cannot burn properly and both the burner and pilot get extinguished shortly after ignition.

It is difficult to diagnose on my water heater because there is no way to access that bottom section of the vent, and there is no outwardly visible issue. To see if this is your problem, you must remove the burner assembly to get access to the vent hole on my American Water Heater model. Checking with my hand, I could feel quite a bit of water inside. I used a shop vac to suck out about 1.5 gallons of water from the bottom and replaced the assembly. It was immediately back to normal operation.

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Rheem NG water heaters with sealed combustion chambers have a safety device below the burner. It’s called a thermal release device; a glass tube holds down a spring loaded rod attached to damper door that controls combustion air ( no air/ burner will flame out ). The pilot may stay lighted for a couple of minutes if cover plate was removed.

I’ve read Rheem will send you a new glass tube, but the real question is why did it melt? Most likely bad burner flame caused by bad flue ventilation.

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