Long story short. Bad roof leak. Leaked from the roof to the exterior wall.

I do not know the extent of the damage (yet) but obviously I am not too worried since I plan on, once the roof is repaired (just need to survive a few more days) to knock it all down.

The leak is in the ceiling, where it hits a wall. This wall is between the bedroom corner and the closet interior wall. The water is dripping into the room from the ceiling and within the door frame itself currently.

Come repair time, I am immediately going to tear down the ceiling and the wall (needs to be replaced anyways). When this time comes, how should I best judge what needs to be gutted and what can be saved? I am willing to entirely re-frame the wall and drywall, etc. from scratch if need be. I am assuming once tearing down the drywall I can scrub and bleach-water the wood and let air dry for a day to reduce the risk of any mildrew growth?

I know decking in the roof needs replacing as I've already noticed white growth on the underside of the board in the attic, so I am assuming it will be no different come tear-down inside the house.

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    Your question is too broad in the context asked. You did a great job framing (pun intended) the story, but since you need to open the wall, you are at a point where answers given are going to be opinion based vs. need based. If a board is rotted/warped, you'll be replacing it. How do you know this? By oepning the wall up. If you post some pictures of damage WITH THE WALL open, you can get some non-opinion based answers. – noybman Oct 27 '18 at 20:15
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    There's no reason not to open up wall/ceiling right now. Get a dehunidifier running, stop everything from just sitting waterlogged, which is what causes mold. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Oct 27 '18 at 20:46
  • @Harper I can understand the dehumidifier, which makes sense. I'm simply worried of the inside of the wall. If it is leaking down into the door frame, and then into the house, I am assuming the inside of the wall itself is soaked with very little ventilation. Not sure if that will inevitably lead to mold or not. – Energy Addict Oct 27 '18 at 22:18

If not dried out building materials are an excellent food source for mold. I would not wait but remove the sheetrock and wet insulation now, a dehumidifier is a good idea but fans circulating air may be enough. I don't use bleach because it stinks for a long time. I use a 3% hydrogen peroxide and water mix, it doesn't stink and is just as effective at killing mold. Depending on the length of time it has been leaking it may be possible to save all the wood even the wood that has surface mold now by spraying with the hydrogen peroxide mixture.

Most people don't know this but all wood contains mold spores at plywood plants the veneer is stacked after being pealed and within days the entire stacks are covered in mold. These are killed when the sheets get dried and the go through a second heating process when the sheets are glued together in Hot press. Dimensional lumber is sprayed with a fungicide as it is finished or it will turn before getting to the store and no one wants black lumber.

So get the walls open and kill the mold assess the wood condition if the wood is solid just surface mold spray it. One place you may have to replace floor decking is if underlayment. Has swollen and started to break down, this would need to be replaced after the leak is repaired and the frame work is dry re insulate and put up new sheetrock. One thing I have suggested to my customers is with the walls open it might be a great time to add outlets if any might be wanted. Much cheaper to do it with open walls.

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