THIS METHOD SHOULD NEVER BE USED ON WIRE ROPE INTENDED FOR LIFTING PURPOSES. THE RESULT SHOULD BE ADEQUATELY TESTED WITH AN INTENDED LOAD UNDER CONTROLLED CONDITIONS WHILE HORIZONTAL BEFORE USING IT IN THE FIELD.
(If the intended load is a very light one, such as for a dog tie-out, using your own body weight is one way to test it.)
For up to 3/16" BARED wire rope (that's the metal dia, not including any covering) I hammer in 3 dents.
Using a nail about 3/16" dia. (for a 3/16" ID ferrule) laid across a DOUBLE ferrule, put 2 dents on one side, no closer than within 25% of the END of the ferrule flip it over and put the 3rd dent on the opposite side, spaced between the first 2.
Don't go hammer crazy. With a properly sized ferrule, the dents don't have to be even the WALL thickness of the ferrule itself for max holding power.
I use a traditional anvil's surface, but if you have a vice with an anvil surface behind the jaws, or a piece of railroad rail, or any THICK piece of scrap steel, lay the cable and ferrule on that.
DO NOT DO THIS ON BARE CONCRETE-its an eye hazard and you can easily damage the concrete surface. Plus the ferrule doesn't look as good when you're finished.