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The light bulb in my Whirlpool WFG231LVS0 oven keeps burning out. I've replaced it several times, with new bulbs of several different brands (all marked as being appropriate for ovens).

The new bulbs seem to work for a week or two and then stop turning on.

It seems like the filament is broken. As I rotate it around (see the gif below), I can hear something inside.

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I've read elsewhere that oven lights often stop working either because of slamming doors damaging the filaments or because of liquid splattering onto them. I don't think that's the case with mine.

How can I diagnose and fix this problem?

P.S. This is not a new oven, and there had been more than a year of normal usage before this problem started happening.

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    Does it shake or vibrate at all? I assume you've verified the bulbs are "really dead"? – rogerdpack Sep 29 '18 at 18:59
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    I would check your breakers for the stove as well as if there are any fuses for the 120v portion of the stove (clock, timers, lights, etc.) Has any wiring been done around that area recently? Also, the lamp socket could be bad. Some are metal (usually aluminum) or ceramic. It could just need a socket adjustment, center pin of the socket pulled out to ensure a complete and solid connection to the bulb, or a replacement. – Jeff Cates Sep 29 '18 at 22:06
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    I would check out the bulb socket, it could be loose. But wouldn't rule out the wiring changes. Only way to find out if its the A/C is when the A/C is not used as much, say late fall thru early spring. Perhaps try turning off the circuit breaker to the A/C during that time and test a new bulb. – Jeff Cates Sep 29 '18 at 22:28
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    Do you have a voltmeter? I would be keen to know the voltage between oven chassis and a ground screw or pin on a kitchen receptacle, if you can find a bare metal part of the oven, under three conditions a) oven light on, b) range "burner" turned on, and c) A/C operating. Warning, possibility of shock if I'm right. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 29 '18 at 23:54
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    Better still would be screw a 2-prong socket adapter into the lightbulb socket, run a 2-wire extension cord out of the oven, and measure the voltage between hot and neutral as the A/C cycles and while trying out a stove burner and also messing with the oven clock/ timer. The voltage staying 120V would be a "pass", the voltage going all over the place from 80 to 140V would be a "fail". We are testing the integrity of the oven's neutral wire. Neutral on an oven powers the oven light, timer and clock. In 3-wire oven connections, it also grounds the oven, hence, shock risk. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 30 '18 at 2:29
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I appreciated everyone's comments and wanted to follow up with what seems to be the answer.

My latest bulb has not burned out, and it has been 10+ months.

Apparently I'd simply had a streak of bad luck with the bulbs I'd bought.

My hypothesis that my usage or lack of usage of air conditioning in various seasons affected the electricity of the oven seems to be incorrect.

Thanks for all the tips you posted, though.

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