5

I made a stupid mistake and placed a hot pan on the kitchen counter top directly, which made a small burn and a bigger bump filled with air that cracked after a little while.

I don't know much about kitchens, and I can't tell what the material is.

Is there a way to fix this?

  • 1
    Picture please? – rogerdpack Jun 23 '18 at 18:37
3

That's a laminate countertop. You may want to try to use a repair compound like SeamFill or FormFill Laminate Repair - the damaged spot is small enough where it may work. You'll need to remove the blistered material with a sharp knife before applying the compound. Instructions for application, complete with '70s style cartoons, can be found here.

If the results aren't satisfactory, you will need to cut out a section to install an inset cutting board, or re-laminate the countertop - neither option is simple or easy.

  • 3
    I'd add that since the edge appears rolled, this is probably what's called a "postform" laminate countertop where the laminate is applied under pressure to conform to the curved surface of the substrate. So re-laminating probably won't be an option. An extra quick and dirty variation on the cutting board idea would be to use silicone to glue a nice cutting board over the damage. – Mike Powell Jun 1 '12 at 17:37
  • 2
    or just SET a cutting board on top. – DA01 Jun 1 '12 at 22:33
2

On the plus side, you ruined the least expensive type of countertop--laminate. How big is that particular section of counter top? Might be easiest to just replace that section.

1

SeamFil (Laminate Repair goop) and FormFil (Color matched caulk) would not work well in this situation. Since just the laminate color layer blistered and is very thin, they will "come out" given time. Now, unless you have access to a postform machine (which is basically a big really hot table) and unless you want to pay to get it re-laminated, there is only one thing you can really do, cut it out. Cut out a piece of plywood a bit bigger than the damaged area and place it over the damage area and with a really sharp razor run the knife along the plywood to score the laminate (try to make straight cuts), you will need to do this a few times to get through the laminate, not many since the postform laminate is less than a 1/16 of an inch. Since you probably don't have laminate lying around and it looks white, I am going to take a guess they just used thin Designer White (Wilsonart 354), you could go to a local cabinet/counter shop and ask for a small piece, or if not 354, bring the piece you just cut out. If the shop has been around for a while, they have tons of laminate in stock and should be able to match it. Take the same piece of ply and cut out a square of lam from the new piece, and place it in. You can use carpenters glue or contact adhesive. Oh, yeah don't forget to remove the cut out laminate. You can use a heat gun to soften the glue underneath but be careful of the surrounding lam.

1

I just had a roommate damage one of my countertops with phosphoric acid. I've been told there is no fix except replacement, which is not a good option as I cannot match the pattern nor the wall tile that it's bonded to if I replace it. The damage is a light spot that almost disappears when wet or use lemon oil but that is only temporary.

I am trying a clear epoxy on a scrap piece that I purposely damaged with positive results so far. One problem that I'm having is that the epoxy alone isn't enough to completely get rid of the light spot. The other is that the coat is too glossy. Once it has set (about two days) with a very thin coat, the epoxy seems extremely tough so there is hope.

Today I am trying again and I think I'll be more successful. First, I used oil based paint of a darker color carefully applying it thinning it out as I go with paint thinner until it matched. Acetone will take it right off if I made mistakes. But the paint touch up isn't enough. Next I let it completely dry then mixed a very small amount of epoxy. The trick is to go very thin.

I'm not finished, but the gloss can been toned down by lightly brushing the surface as it sets. I'm doing it every hour, at first with my finger then using a cloth. I may have to use a dry scouring pad. The soft set is complete after 8 hours. After three days it completely sets and it's permanent although a second coat may help if the first does not look right.

Anyway, it's worth trying. The other options are to live with the stain or completely replace the countertop or floor. Good luck finding anything that will match. Manufacturers change their designs often making a partial fix difficult unless extra material was saved.

I am hopeful that this will work. My cost is my time and about $15. To replace it would be $3000. It's worth a try but use something very tough.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.