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My dryer stopped working a couple of weeks ago. Checked the breaker, getting 240VAC across and 120VAC for each leg. I purchased a new outlet and changed it. It is 4 pronged. I get 120VAC from common to one hot leg, nothing from ground to the other hot leg but I get 240VAC across both hots. I also tried from the not working hot leg straight to the ground wire and I get 120VAC.

Any ideas on what the issue could be?

  • please re-read your post and correct the mistakes – jsotola Sep 1 '18 at 18:54
  • How many wires does your supply cable have? How did you connect the 4-prong receptacle to the wires? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 1 '18 at 20:40
  • did you interchange some terms in your original question post -- "common," "ground"? – Nicknamednick Sep 1 '18 at 21:51
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I am not sure why the outlet was changed, is the drum turning but not heating? This is the most common problem I have seen. There are normally 2 possible causes for this failure with good voltages you have measured. First the thermal safety fuse close to the heating element has opened this happens with lint buildup in the exhaust it gets two hot and the safety opens. usually they must be replaced cost usually under 10$. The tougher problem is the heating element has failed and needs to be replaced usually under 75$ in both cases unplug dryer use an ohm meter to verify contunity, the thermal fuse should measure close to 0 ohms, the heating element should be less than 50 ohms maybe lower than 10 ohms depending on the wattage but the element if failed will show open the same as the thermal safety fuse. Knowing why the outlet was replaced may help us provide better answers and or what is the reason the dryer is not working, drum turning not heating, drum not turning, it could even be something as simple as a door switch. My experiance is the thermal fuse first, then heating element, drive belt from the motor to drum, and door switch as top options for not working and all can be fixed much cheaper than even a second hand dryer cost.

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