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So I wanted to replace a broken chandelier in my new house and after doing so with a simple flush mount light, it won't turn off despite what position the switch is in. I am sure I re-connected them the same way they were attached. But do note that there was this one extra white wire the was capped off and not being used. See the images as well.

And I don't think this would make any difference, but I'm also replacing the dimmer at the same time (from rotary knob to slider with toggle). I've read other threads such as this, but can't seem to figure it out. Thanks![At the switch]1

Wiring

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  • Note to all, this is a continuation of a question from Zach around 11 hours ago. – Retired Master Electrician Aug 12 '18 at 1:56
  • The solo white wire, which you later identified as the switched-hot, should be marked at both ends by wrapping black electrical tape around it somewhere in the middle of the exposed length. Very important to do that. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Aug 12 '18 at 19:25
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Switch loops 101

What you have here is a classic example of an old-style switch loop. The white wire capped off by itself is the switched-hot coming back from the dimmer in the wall, which is why the breaker tripped when you nutted it in with the other whites -- you had created a short circuit from switched-hot directly to neutral. So, to get the fixture working again, with the power off:

  1. Un-nut the fixture blacks from the box blacks -- leave the box blacks nutted from each other.
  2. Nut the solo white wire to the fixture blacks.

And then you should be able to button everything back up, turn the power on, and at least be able to control the fixture in an on/off fashion. You'll need to replace the dimmer as well, since it likely died (failed short circuit) during the earlier breaker-tripping mishap.

  • Thanks, it worked! But, would I be able to get the dimmer feature working on it? – Zach Aug 12 '18 at 1:38
  • @Zach -- replacing the dimmer will take care of that :) – ThreePhaseEel Aug 12 '18 at 1:53

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