Alright folks - here's my issue. My house has a ceiling fan that worked for a bit when we moved in...then stopped. I assumed the fan itself (a cheaper contractor model) just went bad. I went and bought a new fan to replace it. The fan is not wired as a switch loop - the power goes into the switch box, then to the fan.
The room itself is wired as follows:
Power to the room > outlet > outlet > outlet > outlet > junction box > switch > fan. The other wire from the junction box goes to another switch > wall sconces.
All outlets work, as do the wall sconces. On every outlet, Hot-Ground=~120v, Hot-Neutral=~120v, and Neutral-Ground=~0v. Resistance from Neutral-Ground=~0.
In the switch box that controls the fan, the Hot-Ground=~120v and is connected to the switch. The Neutral wires are connected to each other and read ~20v to ground. Resistance between ground and neutral is high/unreadable. At the fan - the readings are identical to the switch box. And finally, the initial indicator of there being a problem, the new ceiling fan will also not work. (I tested this new fan on a known good circuit, and it worked.)
My thought is going to a loose neutral. However, while I understand the concept, I don't fully know if my problem points to that or not. It would seem to me if it is a loose neutral, that the logical first place to look would be the junction box right before the switch. I did confirm that the neutrals connected in the switch box are well connected and tight. Anything else that stands out to people smarter than I?
Other tidbit - I have no idea how they wired the outlets - either with the stabs, or (how I think is more correctly in this situation) using the terminals and wire nuts.
UPDATE/FIX: While I never actually saw a loose neutral to confirm - that was the ultimate culprit. I checked the outlet right before the junction box, and it was indeed back stabbed. Pulled it out, and replaced it with a new receptacle (with child protection,) and pig tailed. That did not take the voltage out of the neutral at the fan/fan switch. I then opened the junction box, and pulled all the wire nuts off, and resecured them (better) - no more readings at the fan box. So - something in that junction box was the culprit.