My blower motor stops working almost every night! I have no issues during the day. If the motor kicks on it works fine but when the thermostat reaches temperature and shuts the unit off it’s a 50/50 chance if the blower will work in the next cycle after dark. The condenser will kick on but the blower will not so I have to turn the unit off. The next morning I can turn the unit back on and it works fine. It also does this with the heat. It’s a gas unit. I have had the board changed and thermostat wires replaced with no luck. I am out of ideas in this one. My ac guy can’t figure it out either

  • Hello, and welcome to Stack Exchange. Have you tested your line voltage, to see if perhaps it tends to sag at night? Commented Jul 8, 2018 at 16:58
  • What model is your furnace? Commented Jul 8, 2018 at 17:03
  • Model is a/gpg14 m series. I have no idea of line voltage. I know that it is 11pm and it just stopped working again.
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 4:24
  • How would the line voltage sag at night?
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 4:42
  • Are you talking about the "blower" (in the air handler, used to circulate air inside the home), or the condensing unit fan (fan in the condensing unit, that moves air over the condensing coils)?
    – Tester101
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 19:48

2 Answers 2


Motor controller and or run start capacitor (s) are going bad. That's my first guess. It works when cold(not used for a while) then once used it gets hot ad does not work.

  • I don’t believe that it has a run/start capacitor. I was told it was ran by the control board that has been changed.
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 4:40
  • I have had run start capacitors in the end cap on the motor itself. Motor and capacitor looking like one long motor, very hard to tell at a glance. If I am not mistaken, you have a variable speed blower motor. The run capacitors are on the speed controller attached to the blower motor. Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 13:55
  • There a auxiliary auto limit switch on the blower housing. Could this be the issue?
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 15:32
  • A limit switch would be based on temp. I could see the blower having issues if it was overheating as well. But the temp switch would generally only cause an issue with heating function. As the furnace heats up, the blower refuses to move, trips the high-limit and shuts down the furnace. The blower motor might also need to be lubricated.
    – Jeff Cates
    Commented Jul 10, 2018 at 23:37

I think we are out of DIY territory if the problem is in the ac side of the system, With the limited info provided I would be looking at a low pressure safety switch on the compressor. There are both low pressure and high pressure switches to protect the system, as the temperature drops the Freon vapor pressure drops, if the pressure is below the set point this keeps the compressor from damage and the condenser should not be used with a gas furnace so it may be a problem with the controls are there any lights on the control board. What is the model #. Since it only fails after dark . almost all condensers have a contactor or relay and a start / run capacitor but as it is failing after dark I would look at Freon pressure for the AC but only a control board / programible thermostat explains the gas system not working, I would check the thermostat first and to have the Freon pressure checked you do need a licensed hvac tech.

  • The condenser will run and freeze up because the blower isn’t working. I thought they should be a safety switch that shuts the unit off if the condenser froze up because the blower fan wasn’t running but I guess not. It will run for any length of time in till I cut the unit off. Also when the blower stops and I turn the unit off the “fan only” option on the thermostat doesn’t work either. If the unit is working properly the “ fan only”option works fine. With the condenser running no matter if the blower fan is running or not could that still be a pressure switch?
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 13:40
  • Also I have changed thermostats and Hvac guy has changed thermostat wires going to the unit and has changed the control board with still no luck. He said he has no clue what else to do. I live in a very rule area and do not have many Hvac options. I have spent $180 so far with no luck. The unit is only 2years old.
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 13:45
  • Just to make sure we are talking the same thing the evaporator coil is in the air handler inside at the furnace, the condenser is outside with the compressor. Could you provide the model # of the AC unit, most of the Goodman units I have worked on are very simple in terms of controls many have had low, medium and high speeds , used a simple orifice to meter the Freon. I do believe that I have worked on one that had a TXV (thermal expansion valve) but these units were older, at 2 years and already having a board replaced would be cause for concerne. Yes a low pressure switch could shut it off
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Jul 9, 2018 at 17:07
  • Model is GPG1436080M41AA
    – cory yates
    Commented Jul 10, 2018 at 15:53
  • I think the OP is talking about the furnace blower, not the condenser fan. If the OP is talking about the blower that is housed in the furnace/air handler, then it would be the fan that forces air into the house and can be felt at the vents. As such, I would agree with above answer that it is the start/run cap going bad. Cheap and fairly easy fix.
    – Jeff Cates
    Commented Jul 10, 2018 at 23:26

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