So I am building a deck, and I have a point where a post, the deck beam, and a joist all meet together as shown in the (crude) drawing attached. What would be the appropriate fasteners to use in this case? I can notch the post if needed.

To clarify, I plan on fastening the joist to the beam using a just hanger, but I'm not sure how to secure the beam to the post since the joist hanger would be in the way of most fasteners used to connect the beam to the post.


enter image description here

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    You show the post as wider than the three-off 2x10 beams - but actually, they will be the same width won't they? (Which means there is no way for the end of the joist to rest on the post). – Martin Bonner supports Monica Jul 4 '18 at 9:48
  • What are the loads / dimensions here? In other words, what sort of load does the joist have to carry, and over what distance? (The fact you are using 4x8 joists and 6x10 beams, suggests "quite a bit"). – Martin Bonner supports Monica Jul 4 '18 at 9:50
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    Outside deck construction methods are highly regulated, e.g., failure to notch for vertical load transfer is widely reported as the critical deficiency in failures of highly loaded decks, but I don't think notching is done for joist ends. This case sounds like it requires a professional analysis. Having said that, are the widely used galvanized Simpson StrongTie joist hangers rated for exposed locations? What about the nails or screws for these hangers--are some rated for exposed locations and others limited to protected locations? www2.strongtie.com/webapps/JoistHangerSelector – Jim Stewart Jul 4 '18 at 10:53
  • You want the joint as strong or stronger than the joist ? right? – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Jul 4 '18 at 16:15
  • Appropriate fastener for what exactly? the beam to the post, the joist to to the beam? Please add some more detailed info. – Alaska Man Jul 4 '18 at 16:53

I agree with @JimStewart , notching can be dangerous. Go to your local lumberyard and order a Simpson Strong-Tie column cap similar to this one:


You can order them for 3-2x10 built-up beams on 6x6 posts with 2-2x8 beams joining the 3-2x10 beam. Also, you can order a corner connector.

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Notch the post to accommodate the built up 2x10 beam, leaving the inside face of the built up beam flush with the inside face of the post. Use four 1/2” carriage bolts in a square pattern through the post and beam.

Alternately, if possible, notch the post to accommodate only two of the three 2x10’s of the beam, interrupting the length of the third, leaving more meat on the post to bolt through.

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You should run this by your local inspector, but no heavy duty hardware is required here. All the joists that tie into the beam keep the beam from rotating in any significant way. The only thing you need to do is keep the post from getting inadvertently knocked out from under the beam by impacts. Something as simple as large nails or lag bolts toenailed through the beam into the post are likely adequate. Drill pilot holes as needed to avoid splitting the beam.

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  • I wouldn’t underestimate the load on the deck. I’d worry about wind, seismic and that birthday party where everyone is dancing and jumping around. That deck has the same live load requirements as the living room or any room in the house. (See IRC 301.7.) it’s not just ,”keeping the post from inadvertently getting knocked out”. – Lee Sam Jul 5 '18 at 3:10
  • What load, seismic or otherwise, do you see displacing a post with that much weight on it and modest fastener connections to the beam? – isherwood Jul 5 '18 at 13:03
  • WIND: Uplift hitting that much deck; SEISMIC: When the deck weighs more than the foundation system, then one will go one way and the other will go in opposite direction; PARTY: I was at a wedding recently...they don’t dance like we use to... (Exterior toe-nailing weathers significantly more than interior construction. I worry about splitting.) – Lee Sam Jul 5 '18 at 15:20

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