How should I wire a GFCI outlet and a switch to isolate the switch but provide GFCI protection further in the series?

Question

I am replacing the outlets for my garbage disposal/dishwasher circuit in my kitchen. Currently on that breaker there is one non-GFCI outlet with a pigtailed switch controlling the garbage disposal and one non-switched GFCI outlet controlling the dishwasher. The garbage disposal outlet is currently not in series with the dishwasher outlet, but is "upstream" of it in relation to current coming from the breaker box.

I want to install GFCI protection for both of these outlets. I would also like to replace the current GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher with a normal outlet, so that if it trips, I won't have to remove the dishwasher to reset the outlet. Ideally, I would like to install a GFCI outlet for the current garbage disposal outlet, and have it protect both the garbage disposal and dishwasher outlets. However, there is a catch with this plan. I still need the garbage disposal outlet to be switch-activated, but I do not want that switch to also activate the dishwasher outlet.

In short, how can I wire my new outlets to achieve these goals:

1. GFCI protection for both outlets.
2. No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal).
3. The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet.

I've thought about this for several days, and it may be impossible in my current wiring situation. If it is, what other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above? Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit? Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls?

Edit: Here is a diagram of the current wiring situation.

Answer 1

EDIT Aug 8, 2022: This was asked and answered in 2012 and local and state codes have changed. I did update the link to a newer version.

First things first, here's a link to Leviton's GFSW1 combination switch & GFCI web page. The only reason I give Leviton is because I know the part number. Hubbell, GE or Cooper are just as good and make the same.

GFCI protection for both outlets.

Follow the instructions that come with the GFCI. There are leads for the switch and lugs for the GFCI and also the feedthru-protection of another receptacle.

No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal).

This is accomplished by feeding the dishwasher receptacle using the GFCI feedthru-protection lugs.

The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet.

This is accomplished by using the leads on the combo switch & GFCI to feed the garbage disposal.

Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls?

If there are no wires between the combo switch & GFCI then you will have to pull some romex between the two.

Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit?

The breaker will cost a lot more than the combo switch & GFCI. Also, if the GFCI trips then you have to go to the breaker to reset it. At least with the GFCI receptacle feeding your dishwasher receptacle, you will be closer.

What other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above?

I think this is the way to go, so you don't have to pull your dishwasher out to reset the GFCI. The nice thing about this site is some of the people either can think out of the box or have faced this problem before.

Answer 2

It seems to me that Leviton's switch/GFI combo would be perfect if there's already a toggle switch installed for the dishwasher. A wiring diagram (https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html) explains the installation except it uses a disposer in the illustration. It would involve replacing the existing switch with this unit.

Leviton GFSW1-W Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Combination Switch.

Answer 3

The circuit should be wired like this. You need two receptacles to get the benefit of the GFCI for both the dishwasher and garbage disposal.

Answer 4

The right duplex outlet has the brass tab removed and the two brass hot screws are NOT connected together when the tab is removed. Only the bottom outlet 'half' is switched. The top half is a normal outlet that is not switched.

Forget all those three wires to the left of the switch. They are not needed. That red wire supply wire is bogus and is not needed. To be protected when you touch the garbage disposal and/or the dishwasher, you need to forget the gray wire under the word "Dishwasher" where it is connected to the top black hot line. The gray wire should go down to the lower black GFCI load brass terminal hot by the words, "Load side of outlet". The switch is fine, but needs a pigtail to the top dishwasher brass terminal as stated above. That makes the DW always hot, unless the GFCI trips. The switch only interrupts the black wire hot to the disposal unit. Any GFCI trip from either appliance, turns off both appliances.

The dishwasher as shown has no GFCI protection. However, a GFCI trip will open the white neutral wire inside the GFCI. Therefore, the DW will be turned off by a lack of white wire continuity. NOT good.

To permanently power the DW independently of any GFCI activity, you need to split the tab on the duplex outlet white silver terminal side also. The GFCI white feeder is fine for the G.D., but you will need to run a pigtail from the top outlet half white silver terminal to the orange dot shown point on the gray "Incoming 120V Power supply".

My main point is that nobody stated how the pre-scored split tab was broken off, how it worked, and that no left wire bundle or red wire to the DW was needed.