5

My son has this little car he drives around and the reverse direction stopped working. I took it apart, did some hard-wiring tests and found that the switch was failing (both gear work if I hard-wire the connection that the switch is responsible for making.)

This is the exact switch but it is out of stock, and I can't find it anywhere else online. Must a 6 pin replacement switch be exactly 20A, 250VAC? Or can either parameter vary? if so, how much more or less?

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    This is not a product recommendation question and should not be closed as such. It's about electrical specifications, and while it may be only peripherally about home improvement, it's still a valid question. – isherwood May 27 '18 at 17:15
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    @isherwood Would it be good to possibly move this over to electronics.SE? – dalearn May 27 '18 at 17:51
  • Generally speaking, it simply needs to be rated to handle the ACTUAL load. Hard to guess, but likely the car doesn't pull more than 10A, and it's probably running at 12V. For a motor load it's good to have the voltage rating higher, to handle the inductive load when switching, but a 50V rating is probably all that's needed. But 20A, 250V is a fairly standard "off the shelf" rating, so that's what they used. – Hot Licks May 27 '18 at 18:09
6

Here is a switch that should do the trick for you. It is rated at 22A/250V. Mounting hole size looks to be the same as the Aliexpress item that you linked.

enter image description here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-20A-125V-22A-250V-DPDT-6-Terminal-2-Position-Boat-Rocker-Switch/272975729244?hash=item3f8e9f125c:g:XFsAAOSwnPla8b-Z

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    I agree this should work just fine based on 22A > 20A. Of course, the OP didn't actually ask for a replacement, just asked about specs for a replacement and "shopping questions are off-topic", blah blah blah :-) But good find. – manassehkatz May 27 '18 at 15:56
  • Good find, but I agree with Maharashtra that this item is more appropriate as a comment in addition to an answer that explains which specifications can vary and why. – statueuphemism May 27 '18 at 16:10
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    @statueuphemism "Maharashtra" ? That's a new one. I've seen my name spelled plenty of ways but nothing like that :-) – manassehkatz May 27 '18 at 16:48
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    @manassehkatz Sorry about that. That's a new one for me too, evidently autocorrect on my phone thinks you should spell your name that way. – statueuphemism May 27 '18 at 18:00
4

If you know the actual parameters then you can downgrade based on the actual parameters used.

If you don't know, then play it safe. You can always go UP - e.g., 30A instead of 20A or 500VAC instead of 250VAC.

It is quite likely that the switch has far higher specs than actually needed for the circuit, but without knowing how the device works (how is it powered & how much power does it use), it is impossible to guess.

But I'll guess anyway - my hunch is that the voltage is lower, and very likely DC rather than AC - perhaps 12VDC or 24VDC. DC voltage is continuous, where AC cycles, but while that means 250VDC would likely require a better switch than 250VAC, a more typical (for a toy) 12VDC would not, and in fact a 250VAC switch is probably far more than needed. But more details are needed to know for sure.

  • The switches used in power wheels are 250 v 16 amp in both the gear shift and the gas peddle. – Ed Beal May 27 '18 at 16:42
3

That type of switch should be readily available from electronics suppliers such as Mouser, Digi-Key, Galco, etc.

You want a

  • Rocker switch
  • Termination: Quick Connect Terminal aka spade
  • Mounting style: panel (meaning it goes in a rectangle)
  • Contact form: DPDT
  • Switch function: on-on; or on-off-on if you want a "neutral" position
  • Markings: same as the old switch (probably blank, certainly not 0/1)
  • Current: 20A or larger
  • DC Voltage: (actual working voltage of your car, or larger)

Measure carefully and check the data sheets for the physical dimensions, you should have no trouble finding a UL-listed (as a component) switch. Everything sold by these shops will be UL listed or equivalent.

Expect prices in the $1-4 range + domestic shipping.

Don't even think of buying from the infinite fountain of "cheap"* Cheese junk: Alibaba, Aliexpress, Alianything, eBay, Amazon "Marketplace" etc. -- especially at those prices. $7 for a switch are they kidding??? I'm troubled that all the links in this Q&A so far are all that garbage. Stop buying that.

* $7 for a switch. SMH...

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    $4 + domestic shipping equals about $7 much of the time, no? – statueuphemism May 27 '18 at 16:42
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    @statueuphemism Yes, but UL listed quality parts do not equal cheap knock-offs or dumpster-dived QA rejects. – Harper May 27 '18 at 17:12
  • If you have a local electronics store it could be just $4. – immibis May 28 '18 at 5:32
0

I have replaced several of these switches on the gear shift. A standard R11 DPDT switch 16 amp switch is what power wheels use. Look at the side of the switch and you will find a number similar to R11. I only had a switch body on the shelf but I believe the last one was on-off-on for the gear shift. This is the important part because a different switch is used for the "gas" pedal it was a R11-8 DPDT switch that is momentary on-off. So as long as you get the same type double pole double throw 6 pins that is rated at the same or more amperage it can work. FWIW, I usually purchase several at a time but I have several of these for grandkids. And both the shifter and gas pedal tend to go out.

  • If OP can use a 16A switch, that would widen selection somewhat. – Harper May 27 '18 at 16:34

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