I am attempting to protect a new bath exhaust fan (DewStop Breezeasy F22-1w) through a GFCI (Leviton SmartLocPro) The area is a new construction bathroom. Each time I attempt to switch on the fan the GFCI kicks off. Circuitry to the bathroom is direct through a Stabloc 15 amp, The circuit to the bath at this time includes two LED lights, one GFCI, the fan, plus switches.

Amp draw at the panel and at the bath switch box while two lights and fan are running is 0.29 A. Length of wire run is about 60'. Lights draw 0.07A and the fan connected direct draws 0.17A (Rating on the label is 0.21A)

I have tried a second GFCI with same result. Power is run from source in the switch box to the Line side of the GFCI and out the Load side through a 14/3 wire, bringing power back to the fan switch. Concerned that having only one neutral wire with this setup might affect the operation, I temporarily used two 14/2 wires to make the circuit. The GFCI shut off immediately, so no difference in performance. I have checked wiring and grounding throughout. Thoughts?

  • may be a bad fan – jsotola May 21 '18 at 23:57
  • When you used the pair of 14/2s, did you nut the line and load side neutrals together? – ThreePhaseEel May 22 '18 at 0:01
  • Also, can you get access to a "megger" or insulation resistance tester? – ThreePhaseEel May 22 '18 at 0:16
  • 2
    It'll help to see a photo of what's going on inside the GFCI box...you understand around GFCIs you don't just clump all the neutrals together yes? – Harper May 22 '18 at 5:10
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    If you have the wires to the fan disconnected, I would not expect to see any continuity between neutral (white) and ground (bare/green). Another check I like to do is to make sure there's good continuity between the box or other mounting equipment and the ground wire but you shouldn't have any between the box and neutral or the box and hot. – JimmyJames May 22 '18 at 19:19

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