I would like to make a hole right where the cyan marking is (vertically above the existing screw head which is part of the frame assembly). This is basically a metallic door frame which happens to be on the corner where two sliding doors meet. I need to the hole to attach something to the frame. I've only done a bit of drilling into walls. Is there something I should take into account here? Which anchor should I use? Could this mess up the door somehow? Thanks.enter image description here

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    Presumably there are two or three 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 studs in that corner behind the metal door frame. Drilling there should be no problem--no sign that electrical wires could be there, right? How deep do you want to drill--just into the metal to attach something with a sheet metal screw or deep into the studs? – Jim Stewart May 4 '18 at 8:10
  • Correct about the electrical wires. You are also right about drilling to attach something. Any recommendations about anchors? – squire May 4 '18 at 11:43
  • Not without knowing what you're mounting. What's appropriate for one "something" may not be for another. – isherwood May 4 '18 at 13:46
  • It's basically a speaker that weighs about a kilo (~2 lbs). – squire May 4 '18 at 16:18

If there are wooden 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s behind the metal door frame, then you will not need anchors. I would use 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" wood screws. With a small enough drill for a pilot hole only for the screws you are going to use, drill a hole in the metal and continue to a depth of 2" from the surface of the metal. If there is wood behind, you should get wood shavings out the hole or clinging to the drill bit.

If drilling this pilot hole reveals substantial wood members behind the metal, enlarge the hole in the metal with a larger bit to allow free passage of the screws through the metal. You do not want the screw threads to engage both the metal and the wood (if there is an air gap between the metal and wood behind) because this could deform the metal.

When tightening down the screw to secure the bracket, do not tighten past snug (do NOT over-tighten) because this could deform the metal, if there is an air gap between the metal and a wood member behind.

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  • So does this mean I should start with a metal bit and switch to a wood one if shavings come out? – squire May 4 '18 at 21:41
  • That metal should be easy to drill, but if you have a special high quality metal cutting bit go ahead and use it to go through the metal. I only use serious metal cutting bits on thick metal. – Jim Stewart May 5 '18 at 1:05
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    It turns out there's an air gap and what looks like more metal behind it (I'm not certain though). I decided not to drill further and just see how the screw would sit and it seems solid enough as the load is not too heavy. (I didn't attach a bracket but just used the screw to hang the speaker). – squire May 6 '18 at 15:12
  • How about a picture of the installed speaker? Make it from far enough away for us to see the full setting. – Jim Stewart May 6 '18 at 23:14

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