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I got a power strip (this one) that doesn't have holes on the back for mounting to the wall. I had figured I'd use Command Strip adhesive and be done with it, but it has little grippy feet on the bottom that raise it up off of the surface just enough that a command strip wouldn't grip securely. What else might work? Since it will have power cords (and USB cables) plugged and unplugged every now and then, it needs to be able to stand up to forces perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

  • Is there a reason you're fastening a power strip to the wall? Is this intended to be a temporary install of determinate usage period, or something fitted and left alone for an indeterminate length of time? – ThreePhaseEel May 3 '18 at 2:14
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    @ThreePhaseEel Meant to be left alone indefinitely – Dov May 3 '18 at 2:16
  • I used command strips to hold one to a wall for a year or so, however I had to remove the rubber feet first. Depending on how they're held on (glue vs. molded) it may be possible to remove the feet. – cutrightjm May 3 '18 at 2:42
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    Adhesive Velcro strips might be wider than the feet are tall. At worst, you can grind off the feet with a rotary tool. – Wayfaring Stranger May 3 '18 at 2:53
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    Just for the record, this item is not sold by Amazon. It is "sold by some-no-name-fly-by-night" third party seller (this is called Amazon Marketplace) and only "ships from" Amazon's warehouse and shipping facility, hence eligible for Prime. (Amazon offers a service where anyone can store anything in their warehouses, and if they also sell the item in Amazon Marketplace, it qualifies for Prime.) Upshot is, this unit is probably designed for back-channel sales like this, because it is not built for US safety standards. – Harper - Reinstate Monica May 3 '18 at 15:41
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To avoid damaging the unit and loosing the warranty, do not remove the feet or permanently fix the unit directly to a mount or wall.

Instead I would suggest making a bracket that would clip over the unit and then mount the bracket to where you want to place the unit.

Mounting Options.

Cable Tie: With a block of wood the size of the unit, drill two holes through the width of the block, making sure the holes are in a place that when cable ties are thread through, they will not interfere with any of the sockets. mount the block in position on the wall, feed the cable tie through the holes and tighten around the unit.

Metal Strips: 2 x Perforated metal strips mount directly to the wall or mount to a block as above.

Molded or Routed bracket: create two brackets that will sit over and support either end of the unit. Wood blocks routed so they fit over each end of the unit leaving the sockets free these routed brackets can be mounted to the wall with the unit sitting inside. If you are able to find plastic that can be molded or routed then do you could use this method and this would be the smartest looking option.

  • @Harper again, Amazon Marketplace is not the sure-sign mark of junk you make it out to be. You do need to be more careful, but I knew what product I was getting, and you have no idea what the quality is – Dov Jun 3 '18 at 22:42
  • Sure, it's not all junk, and sometimes Amazon's engine will show an item under a third party seller that Amazon also sells itself. But in the churning field of home electronics, you really have to be careful. There's just so much junk, counterfeits, QA rejects, etc. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jun 3 '18 at 23:13
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Is it not possible to use a knife or other sharp edge to remove the feet? Most of the rubber feet I've seen are either attached via grommets--essentially thin pieces of the rubber which extend through a small holes with a slightly larger part at the end to hold it in place. Cheaper companies attach flat ones with adhesive.

If removal is not an option, your best bet is still with Command adhesive for the wall adhesion. However, what you will want to do is attach something to the underside of the strip (using a thin adhesive strip or, ideally, glue+clamping) that will increase the thickness to the same level as the feet.

I'd probably use a light wood like balsa or bass from a hobby store, as they are available in various small sizes and a large range of thicknesses. You may even be able to find a piece that is already the right length and width in their selection! (Be sure to take the power strip in with you to test for thickness length x width.) If none with the proper thickness will adequately fit, just get a slightly larger one, cut it small enough to fill most of the area, paint it to match the wall or strip (if desired), and attach it with your desired adhesive to the strip. Apply the command strips to the other side, following the supplied instructions, then attach it to the wall.

This will work perfectly, and you likely have something around your house already that you can modify to work (honestly, even a couple layers of carefully glued, trimmed, and painted corrugated cardboard could look professional! You would be surprised!) Honestly though, if it were me, I would probably find a way to remove the feet. ;)

Good luck!

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I glue them to an oversize piece of wood then attach the wood in the normal way.

I roughen the plastic surface with sandpaper to give the surface microscopic jaggedness (called "tooth"), then glue them to the wood with a good 2-part epoxy and correct adhesive filler. The epoxy will engage into the jagged surface and won't just pop off, as it would with unaltered plastic.

For the feet, use a pen or pencil to transfer the marks onto the wood, then use a drill to relief the wood where the feet go. (before you glue, obviously). If you drill it just slightly deeper than the feet, you can also fill that space with epoxy, and it will help grab.

Of course you know, the electrical code only allows power strips with flexible cords for temporary use - not to be used as a substitute for the permanent wiring in a building. The code-legal way to do this same thing is surface conduit coming out to receptacle boxes, then use smart receptacles to switch the loads.

  • I was actually thinking "multioutlet assembly" here.... – ThreePhaseEel May 3 '18 at 3:55
  • So is there now a standard under which it is not permissible to affix one of these "plug strips" to drywall? We have five of these switched multi outlet strips in our house which are 5, 10, 20 (?) years old. I always thought they were safe as long as the total current draw was minimal, say 2 A or less, which is what I estimate our draws are. I have a new one affixed to a bracket on drywall that I use for a 12-A vacuum cleaner. This is plugged into a circuit I added in #12 NM copper. The original branch circuits in our house are wired in #12 and #10 aluminum. – Jim Stewart May 3 '18 at 8:24
  • Is there a regulation about the number of appliances (separate cords) which can be powered by a single duplex receptacle? Obviously, plugging 5 to 7 cords into one duplex receptacle could be a means of overloading a circuit. But if one knows that the total current draw is moderate (say less than 70 % of the nominal breaker trip value), is there still a limit to the number of separately corded appliances for a single duplex receptacle? – Jim Stewart May 3 '18 at 11:14
  • @JimStewart -- as long as circuit ampacity is not exceeded, I don't believe there's a limit -- imagine 100 cell phone chargers, 1 receptacle! – ThreePhaseEel May 3 '18 at 11:38
  • Imagine 84 breakers fed by a single 100A feed! @JimStewart the prohibition on flexible cords used as a substitute for permanent wiring of a structure has always existed, and power strips have always been a flagrant violation of it, as in "this TV, VCR and cable box will be plugged into this power strip temporarily for 20 years". We nudge-wink that, but bolting it to the wall is just a bridge too far, I'm sorry. – Harper - Reinstate Monica May 3 '18 at 14:32
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Look at a multioutlet assembly instead

Since this is meant to be a permanent/indefinite installation, I would look into using a surface raceway starter box and a length of surface raceway to connect the power source to a multioutlet assembly (often known by the trade name Plugmold™, image for exposition only):

multioutlet assembly

These are like power strips, but designed and UL-listed for permanent wiring, mounting, and usage. One can fit a wall switch and surface box into the surface raceway feeding it if one wishes to be able to turn it on and off, for that matter.

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  1. With the power strip unplugged, unscrew the screws that hold the plastic casing together.
  2. Drill holes in the bottom piece of the plastic casing (the piece that will be against the wall).
  3. Hold the bottom casing against the wall where you want it installed, and mark the wall where the holes are.
  4. Screw screws through the holes (from the inside of the power strip) and twist plastic wall anchors onto the screws (use strong, medium-large ones). Make sure the screws draw the anchors firmly against the bottom of the power strip.
  5. Re-assemble the power strip.
  6. Drill holes (smaller than the anchors) where you marked the wall, and push the power strip against the wall, inserting the wall anchors firmly into the holes.
  • And make sure that the screw heads aren’t in places where they will make contact with the circuitry inside. – Josh Withee May 5 '18 at 5:36

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