I live in the Philippines and we don't have neutral wires. I got a Wink Relay 2 years ago but it is a 110v system, something I couldn't use here. But recently I found a way to convert it to 230v.

When I tried to replace a 2 gang switch with my Wink Relay. I saw that there are only 3 wires. Unfortunately the Wink Relay requires a neutral wire to power itself.

What are my options in this? Can I use the line/live as the neutral?


I don’t think there are more wires at the back because the wires are coming from above, see photo:

enter image description here

The wire with a masking tape is the live. The other 2 are the loads.

And this was how the wiring of the original switch was done. 4 wires in total, but the 4th one is really short and just connecting the switches.

enter image description here

  • You're sure you don't have a neutral? Your power outlet has two contacts. One is "hot" the other is "neutral". If there were a third, it would be "safety ground" or just "ground".
    – The Photon
    May 1, 2018 at 16:09
  • I'm connecting this to a switch though. Can I do something about that?
    – majidarif
    May 1, 2018 at 16:10
  • Can you edit your question to make it more clear what you're asking? Say "ground" when you mean ground and "neutral" when you mean neutral.
    – The Photon
    May 1, 2018 at 16:11
  • 1
    You say you don't have a neutral wire, but that's almost certainly not true. If your plugs aren't polarized you might not know which wire in the appliance is going to be hot and which is going to be neutral, but you almost surely do have a neutral wire. (Unless you have two hot phases, but that would cost more for the utility company so it seems unlikely)
    – The Photon
    May 1, 2018 at 16:15
  • 3
    I think the OP is trying to install a device which requires a neutral into a lighting switch wall-box that doesn't have a neutral. If so s/he should edit the question to clarify.
    – Transistor
    May 1, 2018 at 18:13

1 Answer 1


While the Philippines have some unusual power configurations, none of that has any bearing here. OP has the modified Euro style hookup, where ground is centered halfway between the live conductors, 120V from either conductor. Pick either supply wire to act as "neutral" here, just be consistent.

This is a switch loop. What makes it special is it's a 3-wire switch loop because it controls two appliances, just as OP says. But it still has all the normal properties of a switch loop.

Including the absence of a neutral and thus, inability to power powered switches such as smart switches.

OP's options are:

  • if it's conduit, just fish another wire to be the opposite leg.
  • Replace the cable to the switch with /4 cable, which has 4 wires and ground. /3 will not do, do not use a ground wire for a neutral especially not in the Philippines.
  • Make both appliances switch together, freeing up the needed wire.
  • Find smart devices able to power themselves old-school by leaking small amounts of power through the load.
  • Find a smart device able to live up in the ceiling rose, and be remotely controlled in some way.
  • Give up the project.
  • I do have smart light bulbs that can be turned on via wifi. How does that help? And what does make both appliance switch together? The 2 connections are both light bulbs on the ceiling. One inside the house, the other outside. The switch is right next to the door.
    – majidarif
    May 1, 2018 at 19:34
  • That means you get rid of one switch and the remaining switch operates both bulbs. Doesn't sound like the right solution here. May 1, 2018 at 19:37
  • When you say pick either supply wire to act as neutral, you mean the wire from the electric pole outside? My switch is wired from the breaker. Only one wire is coming into the switch, both switches (2 gang) is powered thru that one wire. The other 2 wires are the wires going to the light. 3 total wires inside the box and 1 wire connecting switch 1 to switch 2.
    – majidarif
    May 1, 2018 at 19:38
  • 1
    I meant the wire from one of the loads. Wait. Have you looked in the back of the box behind the switches? Are any other wires there? If not, The smart bulbs are similar to my "module in the ceiling rose" option. They may be the key to success. May 1, 2018 at 19:40
  • If I understand correctly. I’m going to use the other load as the neutral? And use a smart light bulb on the light for the switch instead? My smart light bulb is a E27 Lifx.
    – majidarif
    May 1, 2018 at 19:45

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