Just moved into a new house that had a new oven when we moved in. After the first use the breaker trips but there's still power to the unit. Is the source of this a faulty breaker?

  • Assuming it's an electric oven, Make and model of the oven? (we need to check if there's anything special in wiring, although not likely). Also what type of breaker is it? Most should have "common trip", it sounds like yours does not. Finally, why do you say it still has power? Could it be a battery for the clock? – Tyson Apr 9 '18 at 15:53
  • Electric Whirlpool, glass top not convection. If circuit breaker panel is original and it looks like it is, its approx 40 years old. All lights stay on , just no heat. Breaker doesn't have green or orange bars. I believe it is a common though – Kenion Simi Apr 9 '18 at 15:55
  • Using the oven seems to be the Catalyst for the breaker popping. Using the cooktop has no effect on the breaker. The all the lights and clock stay on after the breaker is popped when turning on the oven. But the breaker switch barely moves does not trip to half-mast or fully – Kenion Simi Apr 9 '18 at 16:00
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    So it’s a new self contained stove with oven—-not an oven by itself, as the title and question imply? Most breaker handles don’t move to off when tripped, that’s normal. We still don’t have details to answer your question tho, you should check the pointers in the help center about how to ask. People are not going to guess, or spend there time trying to google which whirlpool stove you might have. – Tyson Apr 9 '18 at 16:06
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    You say the lights and clock stay on when the breaker trips. Do the surface burner units heat? – Jim Stewart Apr 9 '18 at 21:10

What size is the breaker? An electric stove will normally be supplied by 240 V through a 40-A double pole common trip breaker. If the range is still getting some power, but the oven is not heating then it could be that one leg is tripped and the other is not.

Do all the surface burners heat at full heat. I am sure that these are supplied at 240 V so if you turned them each on singly to high and they all work, then you are getting 240 V to the range. If you turn them all to high at the same time and the breaker does not trip, then I would say the oven is malfunctioning (shorting). Does the broiler work?

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    With the breaker tripping when the oven is used I would suspect a blown element this is common but having power with the breaker tripped is unusual unless there is a 120v cord for the controls I have see an a couple of these so they could be run on a 3 wire 240 for the heat and 120 for controlled, a plug is lots cheaper than a transformer, but rare. – Ed Beal Oct 2 '18 at 16:24

Ok let's start with some basic electrical. If a circuit is attache to a breaker it is physically and mechanically disconnected form the power. So how does your range have power?

The only scenario where it can be getting power is from a second source. That would mean the range is getting power from a second circuit or more likely somewhere in your electrical system you have lost a leg or neutral and power is in back flowing into your range.

First visually check to see if there are any other circuits acting peculiar or or showing signs of low voltage. Thing I call ghost electrical, you know "I turn the lights off and the AC comes on and the lights come back on". Second go to your panel and turn every breaker on to see if it kills the range and locate the circuit that is back feeding. If those don't work then your going to have to locate it with an voltmeter if you have one or seek experienced help.

Turn on of all breakers including your main and begin checking voltages first from your meter then turn on your main and check the bus, Then start a progressive search one breaker at a time.

Remember if you are doing this then you have removed the panel cover and you are dealing with live circuits. So approach it with extra caution.

Stay safe and good luck

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