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On Wednesday we had new appliances delivered to the house. The installation was included in the purchase price so I let the retailer (not a big box but a well known and regarded local appliance shop) install everything. We have a double wall oven (JennAir) that was replacing a 14 year old Maytag double wall oven. The old oven and the new oven require 240v.

I chatted with the guys doing the installation on Weds morning and then headed to work. When I got home everything looked great, as directed by the installer, I was to turn the oven to bake at 350 for one hour to burn off some of the coatings put on the oven out of the factory. All works fine - oven has power, lights, etc. But no heat. Zilch - no bake, no broil.

Fast forward to today and I've since pulled the oven out of the wall and I'm not registering 240v, I'm getting 125v. My guess is that the oven is fine but that it's not getting enough power to heat. My hope is that this isn't an issue with the wiring but I'm really struggling with another reason - everything was fine with the old oven which arguably drew more power. Could it be the junction box connection? (I wasn't able to get the oven out far enough to check the connections) Perhaps a bad breaker?

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  • sounds like a leg came loose form the outlet. Have you opened the outlet and checked to make sure the wires are still attached? Check your breaker in the panel too. If it was good when the old one came out, then I would suspect a loose wire in the outlet box.
    – Jeff Cates
    Commented Apr 7, 2018 at 0:28
  • Turn off the double pole breaker feeding the oven and then turn it back on. Does the oven heat now?
    – Jim Stewart
    Commented Apr 7, 2018 at 0:40
  • Did they run new wiring to the oven? Was a new breaker involved? Is your service panel fairly tight on space?
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Apr 7, 2018 at 1:28
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    Sounds silly but my cooker does this. Everything looks fine but the oven doesn't heat up...until the time on the clock is set. Ie. It could be something simple.
    – Niall
    Commented Aug 5, 2018 at 13:15
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    If the breaker has handle ties it may be fine but when the installers turned it back on one side may not have clicked over this is why single handle breakers can be better. Try turning the breaker off and back on at the breaker.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Dec 12, 2018 at 18:51

2 Answers 2

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There are some good questions here in the comments of your post.

One thing you did not mention was the 125V measurement how that was taken from what to what.

So lets assume you have a 3-Way or a 4-Way hookup, you should have L1, L2, Neutral and if you have a 4th wire it will be the Ground.

Measuring

L1 to Neutral 125 VAC L2 to Neutral 125 VAC L1 to L2 240 VAC L1 to Ground 125 VAC L2 to Ground 125 VAC

Neutral to Ground ~0 to .5 VAC.

Now you do not mention what the installers did - replace wiring or Circuit Breaker or leave the old breaker?

You should measure your voltage at the Breaker there should be a single or a ganged breaker that is for L1 and L2 - you should measure your voltage on the breaker terminals to see if you have proper voltage right after the breaker (seeing as you did not have it at the oven ???? ).

1: if you have voltage - turn the oven on and measure the voltage - if the voltage drops you have a bad breaker.

2: if you don't have voltage - you have a bad breaker.

3: If you have voltage at the breaker and while the oven is on as well - verify your wiring connections at the breaker, that they are tight. Then verify the neutral and ground connections are also tight. After this you will need to go to your oven and check the connections at the oven to make sure they are properly connected in a manner appropriate for your ovens connections.

4: If after these steps you still have no voltage - you have a wire break between the service panel and the oven.

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It sounds like either the breaker is malfunctioning (the breaker is not flipped on all the way, or is internally burned-out), one of the "legs" of power is disconnected from the stove (this would be internal, probably inside of a removable access panel on the back of the stove, or a wiring issue inside the wall (could be a junction that has failed, or if an outlet is attached, a bad connection to the outlet or bad outlet. This can happen after an installation, when a wire is disturbed and an already poor connection due to time or corrosion is disturbed by the moving wire.) The only other possibility is a defective appliance. Good luck and I hope you find your solution.

To diagnose this and possibly fix this, do this...

  1. Turn your breaker off and back on again as Jim Stewart said above in a comment. When you turn it back on flip it on very firmly, then test your wires for 120 from each "leg".

  2. (This step is if the breaker is not the problem and 240V is being supplied to the stove- if not, go to step 3.) If the breaker is no issue, then turn off the power to the stove and check inside the access panel behind the stove. (It should be a small panel, or wherever the wires make a connection.)

  3. If you have the know how, go into wherever the wire is either making a junction or connecting to an outlet and check for any disconnections or problems.

After these steps, if you can't find the problem. It is most likely a wiring issue.

120V in a stove is only enough to power the motherboard, any heating elements will only put off a very negligible amount of heat.

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