# What size is this wallplug, and then what drill size (and type) would I use for brick?

I'm trying to hang a hose "butler" from Home Depot (Model CHH200HB). It comes with three wallplugs and screws, so should be simple, but there is no sign of what size the plugs or screws are, nor which drill size to use. Can anyone help? Here are the plugs and screws, with one of the plugs in a gauge:

So it looks like the outer diameter of the plug is 5/16" -- that's at the widest part (and these plugs have no flange). Does that immediately tell me the drill bit too should be 5/16"? Seems obvious I suppose, but the general wisdom seems to be that if you've drilled the proper hole, the plug should be very tight, even needing a hammer to insert. That might then imply I should use the next size down, but what exactly is the "next" down from 5/16? I have one that is 1/16 down; i.e. 4/16, or a quarter inch. But how do I know that's the right one versus, say, one that is 1/32 down; i.e. taking 5/16 = 10/32, then a 9/32" bit (if there even is such a thing)?† And of course that could get even finer grained. Instead of 1/4", or 9/32", how about 19/64"?

Second, if I'm drilling into brick, what type of drill do I need -- i.e. do I need a special brick-and-other-fairly-hard-stuff bit? I have one of those yellow boxes of Dewalt bits you find in Home Depot, but I don't know what type they are. I think I'd have bought a general-purpose-ish set, meaning not just for wood, but do these look like they'll handle brick?

If I do need something like a hammerhead, then all I have are these UK/European bits:

and I have no idea how to relate those numbers to any other screw/drill/etc numbering system on the planet.

Finally, would anyone else agree with me that while there are plenty of bad things in the world, including possible imminent nuclear war, antibiotic-resistant bugs, and too many TV shows with the words "The Real Housewives of..." in the title or with Simon Cowell as a panel member, the biggest source of misery is the lack of standardization on screw/drill/etc diensions?††

thanks!

† FWIW, I tried to gauge the screw diameter too (not that it matters, I guess, since if I get the plug's hole right, I implicitly accommodate the screw), but it's hard because the threads are quite deep. On the gauge, it sits around 7/32", or maybe 13/64".

†† Although if it were a competition, then screw dimensions would get a good run for its money by the corresponding issue in cooking and baking (I mean, in what universe is a "cup" an appropriate unit for measuring mass -- really?)

• Standard drill bits are sized in 3 sets, a-z , fractional usually up to 1/2" in 1/16 or 1/8 inch steps and finally numbered 1 thru 60 depending on the number of bits in the set just about every size below 1/2 inch will be in a big set. You want the hole to be tight on the insert when you add the screw it will tighten in the hole. Commented Apr 1, 2018 at 0:12

Use the Black & Decker drill bit for masonry. 8 mm is compatible with the 5/16" size you gauged. If you choose, for a guaranteed tight fit, use the 7 mm drill first and if the insert is too tight, go up to the 8 mm. Even if the insert slips into the hole, the little "wings" should keep it from spinning in the hole until the screw goes in far enough to swell the plastic to a tight fit.

After the hole is drilled a little extra deep, do what you can to blow the dust out, so the anchor grips the actual hole, not the dust in it.

• +1, start with the 7mm. Commented Apr 1, 2018 at 5:26
• Thanks guys; especially for that dust-blowing tip Jack. BTW, you are confirming that the numbers on that B&D case are mm, which is what I'd thought at first, but then convinced myself otherwise because when I measured the width of the 10 it was less than 10mm. However, now I see I measured the width of the main spindle, and not of the slightly wider "hammer head". That head is indeed 10mm, so fair enough. Makes sense I suppose because the wider head is what is making the hole. Any idea why the head is wider on this type of bit and not on others that don't use a hammer action?
– tkp
Commented Apr 1, 2018 at 18:07
• I am sure it has everything to do with the mechanics of the actual drilling of the hole. The dust as it is created from drilling the hole would eventually clog everything to wear a tight-fitting shank would jam up readily. If you don't clear the dust yourself as you go in sometimes, the bit will jam as well.
– Jack
Commented Apr 1, 2018 at 20:23

If you have a 7,5mm drill tip use that, otherwise drill a 7mm hole first, try putting in the plug (it should barley fit). If you see it's impossible to insert, enlarge the hole with a 8mm tip. Also you can go at local retailer and buy few 7mm 'fishers' and use them instead, suggest 'empty wall' version that is foine for both 'full' bricks and hollow bricks.

PS: Happy Easter

• To be clear, I am (now) in the US and using US drills where I can. That said, since the only masonry bits I have are those old (notice the case says they were made in "West Germany"!) B&D's, I'm going to start by following Jack's and Jimmy Fixi-it's advice, which appears to be identical to yours. P.S. Thx. Christos Anesti!
– tkp
Commented Apr 1, 2018 at 17:54

The correct term for your wallplug dodad is an "Anchor". Perhaps they are wallplugs in your world but in my world they are anchors ( then again i have happy little trees in my world thanks to Bob Ross ). They really are not the correct anchor to use in masonry.

Here is an informative article How to Choose and Use Concrete Fasteners, Masonry Screws

• Thanks. In my world they were always "Rawlplugs", but that's a brand name I believe. Personally, I'd be happy with "dodad", although that might then get confused with the doofer thing we use to change channels on the TV :-) And so what is the correct dodad/doofer/anchor for hanging something fairly light (<10lbs) onto brick? FWIW, that article you linked to says that for brick, what I have is fine. Is brick perhaps different from "masonry"?
– tkp
Commented Apr 2, 2018 at 17:47