So I purchased these lights on Amazon, not realizing that they don't actually have a wall plug, they're just bare wires. Can I attach some wiring and a plug to the wires to be able to plugin them into the wall? If so, what all would I need to accomplish the task?

Here is the only technical information about the lights that I saw: 10W 12V LED Flood Light with Epistar Chip.

And here is a picture of how it is currently wired:


  • That sounds like an answer isherwood
    – Daryl
    Mar 29 '18 at 18:53
  • Voice of experience, don't buy the bottom bottom shelf of those bottom-shelf lights, buy the mid-tier bottom shelf from a reputable (heh) importer. It makes all the difference in the world. I bought a no-name generic and also one from an "importer that's been around awhile", the generic died in 3 months, the respectable one is stilll goin... teardown revealed nothing obvious, probably a duff driver. Mar 29 '18 at 18:53

No. They're 12VDC, which means if you plug them into your wall they'll go PFFFZZZZZT and make a little puff of smoke. Or worse.

You'll need a power supply (a wall brick) that provides 12 volts and enough current. You can add mating plugs to the lights or just crimp them together.


Since it's low-voltage (12V) and NOT mains power, flexible cordage is allowed broadly.

If you missed that it's low-voltage, the dead giveaway is the black and white cord wires in the photo absent a green/green-yellow equipment safety ground. Low-voltage DC doesn't need it.

You'll want to use a plug that is for 12 volts DC

First, polarity matters. Second, the standard 120V NEMA 1 plug is right out, because some epsilon-minus will plug it into a wall socket and it will blow up. I have thought of using sockets like NEMA L3 that are so obscure no one uses them, but conversly, no one sells them either at a sane price.

Honestly, there aren't a lot of good choices for 12 volt DC plug. The very ungainly "cigarette lighter" socket seems to be the de-facto standard, which just goes to show how desperate we are for a standard. Andersons are also ungainly and Molex are too hard to unplug. Coaxial connectors like on your Internet router is probably as good as it gets.

If you need outdoor/waterproofing, then hit up electronics supply shops for automotive grade sockets and plugs, with the little gaskets and all that. Or pull 'em off GM cars (the most common) at a u-pull-it junkyard.

  • Two pin molex or the battery connectors that remote control car and airplane batteries seem like they'd handle the load and are readily available. They're DC and polarized.
    – Freiheit
    Mar 29 '18 at 23:44

Use a 4 pin XLR connector (generally used for 12V power)

Pinout: https://www.canford.co.uk/Technical/Article/XLR4PinWiringConvention

10W at 12V is about an amp of current (power divided by voltage) - for safety use 5A cable and use a power supply capable of delivering 15W per lamp attached.

  • Could you edit the pinout into the post in case the link breaks? Mar 30 '18 at 1:34

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