When framing wall studs 24" on center and the joists are running north and south you layout the wall studs to sit directly above the 24" joists. What do you do for the outside walls running above the east/west rim joist? Is only having the rim joist available to set the 24" on center studs acceptable or do you need to install additional structural support?

  • This sort of nonsense is why 24" centers aren't worth doing. The bit of lumber you save in studs makes more hassle than it's worth. You can't hang your tv as easily, either. – isherwood Mar 20 '18 at 15:53
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    Some of the proponents of "advanced framing" (2x6 studs on 24" centers) tout the improvement in insulating value from reduction of thermal bridging of the studs. But one proponent, Matt Risinger, suggests that 5/8" drywall is more or less required. youtube.com/watch?v=aYqgdLB10pE Our tract house (Fox & Jacobs b. 1971 in Dallas) has 2x4 studs on 24" centers with 1/2" drywall. The quality of our drywall is definitely below first rate construction, but the basic framing has stood the test of time. – Jim Stewart Mar 20 '18 at 17:16
  • OP, are you installing a single or a double top plate? – Jim Stewart Mar 21 '18 at 16:36
  • @isherwood, what do you think of the use of finger-jointed studs? Do you think they might be acceptable for 2x4 studs on 16" centers and a dbl top plate but not for 24" centers and a single top plate? (It goes without saying that finger-jointed 2x4s or 2x6s cannot be used for anything other than studs, i.e., no use under bending stresses.) From what I see this new house in my neighborhood is using finger jointed studs 2x6 or the exterior walls and 2x4 for the exterior wall of the attached garage. Everything else is solid lumber, special beams, wooden I-beams. 100% sheathed ZipSystems. – Jim Stewart Mar 21 '18 at 17:02

Your east west wall as the floor is concerned is a non bearing wall. For the situation, you want to address, I usually double the rim joist to add a little width under the subfloor to support the wall above. If the wall above is a bearing wall, the doubling of the rim joist should handle the load as well as long as the load is transferred to the foundation.


Stud location is almost never considered even with 16" centers, especially since many floor systems are on 19.2" or 24" centers anyway. The wall plates, subfloor, and rim joists function as a system and don't depend on direct alignment of the studs and joists.

  • Our single story tract house, slab on grade, has a (double Fink) truss roof on 24" centers. In the parts I can see, the trusses are located exactly over studs. – Jim Stewart Mar 20 '18 at 19:38
  • That just means that the carpenters laid out each from the same end of the foundation. Doesn't mean there's any requirement nor that it was intentional. – isherwood Mar 20 '18 at 20:01
  • It is a strong "recommendation", right? It is considered a mark of framing craftsmanship, right? I am ignorant of the stress limits of a 2x4 double top plate. What do you think--would it make any difference if the ends of the trusses were placed between studs? I gather that in "advanced framing" there is a single top plate (2x6). Hence the importance in putting the ceiling joists exactly over the studs. apawood.org/advanced-framing – Jim Stewart Mar 20 '18 at 21:55
  • I should have added that our 4-bdrm 2-bath tract house has double top 2x4 plates on all of the exterior walls and on one interior load bearing wall) on 24" centers, So our construction is basically traditional framing but with studs on 24" centers. Our tract neighborhood (~`200? houses) has recently become attractive to flippers. So far all are renovations, but there has been one demolition. The brand new house is under construction--the quality, features and size that I would est at a $400k to $500k for the structure. No advanced framing here: 2x6 studs on 16" centers, dbl top plates. – Jim Stewart Mar 21 '18 at 11:04

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