Requirement: Cutting of iron and steel rods; TMT rebars; solid/hollow; max diameter 2 cm. Steps taken: I am using special circular saw blades(Ferrous metal cutting) to be fitted to a regular 10mm(0-3000 rpm) electric drill. Mine is Makita M0600B.

Question1: So are any small circular blades(Ferrous metal cutting) and mandrel available, which can be fitted to an electric drill?

Question2: Is there any kind of adapter/attachment which can change the angle of the drill? 0-90 degrees? Basically converting it to a rotary cutter.

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    Shopping questions are off topic (you read the rules, right?), but the first is far too small. It's for 1" or smaller wheels in rotary tools (Dremels). The second may work with some washers in between, but I question your approach to begin with. Why aren't you using a circular saw blade in a circular saw, or maybe a miter saw? A drill will be unstable and difficult to handle in that sideways configuration. It probably won't provide the torque needed, either. – isherwood Mar 8 '18 at 17:08
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    Even if this was a workable idea, 3000 RPM is low. A circular saw with a 7" blade operates at almost twice that speed (5400RPM). Angle grinders with smaller 4" blades spin at almost 4 times that speed . (11k RPM). A drill is not the right tool. – JPhi1618 Mar 8 '18 at 20:36
  • the two mandrels you've selected are vastly different sizes and you haven't given any info on the blade you've selected.. (??) – agentp Mar 9 '18 at 1:20
  • Thanks for all the feedback. Added a question to the original post. – Abu Galib Mar 9 '18 at 4:47
  • @JPhi1618 Depending on whether he is using an abrasive wheel or a toothed wheel, 3k RPM is either numbingly slow or absurdly fast (unless your into ultra-high-speed machining) – Hari Ganti Mar 9 '18 at 6:21

This is a really bad idea.

Out of curiosity, have you done much metalworking previously?

Let's assume you've got a nice circular saw blade with teeth. Here's what will, and yes, I mean will, happen. You'll be holding the drill at an uncomfortable angle to try and apply pressure in the direction of the cut. The teeth will bite into the metal and it will yank the drill up and out of your hand. Thankfully, the drill trigger is something of a deadman switch so it will stop and you'll be frustrated.

Possibility two, you have a cutoff wheel, which is an abrasive disc meant for this purpose. You're still stuck holding the drill in an awkward way, the wheel can still bite, and you're basically no closer to your goal.

How to do this properly

If you need portability and it must be a handheld tool, get yourself a 4" or 6" angle grinder with cutoff wheels.

This is an angle grinder (it has a grinding disc on it currently)

angle grinder

This will allow you to cut through most ferrous and some other metals.

If it doesn't need to be handheld, then you can get a chop saw and accomplish the same task, but with better fixturing.

It looks like this

chop saw

There are many other ways to cut metal, but a drill should only ever be used for drilling.

I forgot to mention this earlier, but drill chucks are designed for axial loads. You'd be subjecting it to large radial loads, which would quickly destroy the bearings, likely the motor, and certainly render the drill useless.

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  • Many thanks. No I have not used an electric saw before. But I have done a lot of drilling in DIY home projects. I was figuring out, how to extend the functionality of the Electric Drill, without an extra tool. – Abu Galib Mar 10 '18 at 4:46
  • One site suggests "Circular Saw Attachment". – Abu Galib Mar 10 '18 at 4:49
  • @AbuGalib Different tools are made for different purposes. Put another way, different purposes require different tooling. – Hari Ganti Mar 11 '18 at 4:38

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