Here's a few photos of a window that I installed last year. I used the mixed knowledge of a few different online articles and did it to my best ability, but I'm kinda worried that it may have been done wrong. If so, and I was wrong in a significant way, I'll probably have to fix it. Any words of wisdom are welcome.

Click images for full size

  • Is the frame anchored to the concrete? – The Evil Greebo Apr 4 '12 at 19:42
  • @TheEvilGreebo Yes, I used a ramset and nailed it in at 3 places in each piece of lumber – kavisiegel Apr 4 '12 at 21:12
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    Aren't stack exchange images supposed to be at i.stack.imgur.com while yours are just at i.imgur.com. These will go away over time where as the stack ones will stay for as long as stackexchange is in good standings with imgur. – Kellenjb Apr 4 '12 at 21:14
  • make sure that downspout is extended a little further away from the large window well. as it looks in the pic, water could end up running back into it. – mohlsen Apr 5 '12 at 12:38
  • It's actually all on a down hill, you can't see that in the photo.. everything flows out quite well - no drainage issues. The plan is to redo the padio and have it drain onto that, though. – kavisiegel Apr 5 '12 at 22:59

The only thing at all possibly risky that I see in that AWESOME looking installation is the exterior shot of the window mounting.

The top edge of the window flange (I think is the word) points up, creating a potential point for water entry behind the window.

This is mitigated some by the near proximity of the siding above, but driving rain could still get in there.

I would therefore recommend you put a waterproof material around and over the edges of the window, and extending up to underneath the siding, to ensure that water that does hit that wall cannot get behind the window.

Beside that, dude, that looks great!

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  • Thanks! Its good to have people who know what they're doing take a look at your work, I'm a bit releived. I'm putting up some pvc trim to prevent water buildups, and right after that photo I put up tar tape around all exposed wood. It'll look much better when I get the trim up and put a bush in that gravel bed! – kavisiegel Apr 6 '12 at 0:48

Looks really good. In addition to Greebo's recommendation of some flashing, the only thing I can't tell from the pics is how well-anchored the header is. When you cut a hole under load-bearing structure, you need a good header to distribute the load across the span instead of having that weight bear down on the window. I see that you put in jack studs (good) with a wooden header (also good) to frame the window, but I can't tell if the header is recessed into the concrete or if the load picked up by the header is just supported by the jack studs.

Out of an abundance of caution, I would have recommended a steel lintel above the header and cut into the foundation, to help bear the load and distribute it into the concrete on either side. But, it looks really good and you shouldn't have any problems for a very long time the way you did it.

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  • Ouch, looks like I did mess up then. That "header" actually doesn't support anything, I just used it to frame the window. Above the ceiling line, the jack studs I put in just about line up with the upstairs wall studs, there's only one stud floating in the middle there. The jack studs were cut an extra .1 long and hammered in so they would support the weight. I am putting some pvc trim up to prevent water getting in, along with some of that tar tape stuff. Should I be worried much about the weight distribution, though? Next time I'll definitley use metal! – kavisiegel Apr 6 '12 at 0:43
  • @kavisiegel Did you widen the original hole, or just make it taller? – Tester101 Apr 7 '12 at 14:01
  • 6 inches wider, yes. – kavisiegel Apr 9 '12 at 1:21
  • Just allow a small gap below the header to avoid pressure on the window - then foam it. Don't think you need a steel lintel with PVC siding. Like the foil reflecter weather barrier – user15332 Sep 29 '13 at 10:26

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