2

I just bought this switch plate. Problem is, it has a thick rim on the back, so that it sits about 3/32 of an inch further out from the wall than a "normal" switch plate. The switches are flush with the wall, so they work fine with a normal plate. With this one they sit back from the plate, and the result looks really ugly. What am I overlooking? How do I use this switch plate with normal wall switches?

  • @Harper -- good point. They're flush. Edited the question. – Pete Becker Mar 2 '18 at 16:07
  • Given the conditions you are describing, I would have expected the switch plate to provide for this issue in its labeling or instructions which are part of its UL listing. First, check the instructions, they may have provided shims. If mum, check the product carefully for evidence of a UL listing. I would not put it past the big box stores to sell unlisted products that may not be safe for other reasons. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Mar 2 '18 at 16:36
  • @Harper -- it's ETL listed; that's a different organization than UL, but it tests to UL standards. It looks like the product is Canadian, since it says it's "Certified to CAN/CSA Std C22.2 No. 42.1" and that it "Conforms to UL Std. 514D". Made in China. – Pete Becker Mar 2 '18 at 16:46
  • 1
    Yeah that works, several testing orgs compete with UL and their certs are valid too. CSA is good as gold. Unless it's ladies' hockey sticks, then good as silver. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Mar 2 '18 at 17:01
2

I've used these simple extenders/spacers to move an outlet slightly forward. Basically, just unscrew the outlet's top and bottom screws from the box, bend and pull off as many of the green spacers (probably you'll only need 2 per screw) as you need, then place over the outlet screw holes and screw the outlet back in through the outlet metal tabs, through the green plastic spacers, back into the box. Note: If the gap is > 1/4", you must get one of these instead (by code).

  • 1
    Danger Will Robinson. If your yokes (the things you're about to move) don't have a wired ground wire and have depended on hard-flush bare metal-metal contact with the metal box, this will unground them. Screw threads are not valid grounding paths. Just pigtail a ground to each of them. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Mar 2 '18 at 16:33
  • @Harper -- the outlets do have ground lugs. – Pete Becker Mar 2 '18 at 16:39

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.