I have a Whirlpool washing machine, model WTW5700SW0. The lid switch (part WP8318084) is partially burnt and melted, so I'm going to replace it. I also need to replace the wiring harness connector that attaches to the lid switch because it started to melt and one of the terminals is burnt. After a lot of searching, I found part WP2172937, which is the plastic connector, but it doesn't come with the terminals that fit inside it. Those terminals are apparently part number WP352088, but that part has been discontinued and I can't find it in stock anywhere.

I need help finding a suitable terminal to use instead of WP352088. What should I look for? I know I can buy a whole new wiring harness, but I really don't want to spend $150 when I just need to replace one connector.

  • Links to parts pages or some images would help greatly.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 28, 2018 at 18:37
  • First search result for 'WP352088'. Is that not what you're after?
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 28, 2018 at 18:40
  • @isherwood I'm surprised Sears has it in stock. I've looked at a lot of appliance parts sites today and they all say it's discontinued and out of stock. Sears wants $15 with shipping and they say it will take 9 days to arrive. I really need it sooner so I can do some laundry. Any other ideas?
    – mrog
    Commented Feb 28, 2018 at 18:51
  • In the interim, you could bypass the "safety" switch so you can do laundry. The reason for the lid switch is so that you don't get your hands and or arms caught while the machine is running. As long as you are ok with connecting the wires together until your parts areive, you will be good to go. Since you have to cut the ends off anyway, then it's not any extra step.
    – Jeff Cates
    Commented Feb 28, 2018 at 19:35
  • Anyone concerned that the OP reports burnt terminals. Is this typically a low voltage (24V or less?) circuit running to that door switch?
    – Stanwood
    Commented Mar 1, 2018 at 14:09

1 Answer 1


For anyone attempting this repair, I don't recommend reusing the terminals from the original connector. It's very difficult to remove them from the old connector without bending them up and making them unusable. Just cut them off, preserving as much of the wire as you can. I had to replace a section of the white wire because the insulation was toasted and the wire was tarnished for a couple of inches. I used a lineman's splice with solder and heat shrink tubing.

When the new connector arrived, I found the manufacturer's name and part number stamped on it. Whirlpool WP2172937 cost me $11, but it's actually a repackaged Molex 43335, which can be purchased from mouser.com for $0.55. I found the connector terminals using the Molex website. Their part number is 43375-0001. You can get them for a few cents from mouser.com, but I opted to buy a package of 10 from Amazon because they have cheap fast shipping. (It's good to have some extra terminals for practice, anyway.)

You'll need a crimper for the terminals. The official Molex crimper is $500. Fortunately, I found a much cheaper one that works well. It was $21 from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VH2WJC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The crimper comes with 5 dies. For these terminals, use the "1.5-2.5" slot on the "LG" die. It does the conductor crimp and the insulation crimp at the same time. Make sure the terminal is oriented the right way, then insert it into the crimper without the wire and close the crimper just until the first click. The crimper will then hold the terminal securely, making it easy to insert the wire. After the wire's in, squeeze the crimper all the way.

After the terminal is attached to the wire, you can slide the terminal into the connector with little effort and it will click into place.

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