Well, it was my first difficult handman project and I got this far...

Below is a photo of my installation right now. Every single diagram I've seen has the J-Trap facing down. Is there any way around moving the drainage outlet?

My Sink


Seems to me that the issue is the pipe enters the wall so low that the J-trap won't reach (and would hit the shelf)? Looks like you are going to need to get two elbows, or a 180 and bring the wall fitting up higher to meet your J:

lame drawing

It will snake around a lot, but I don't think there's anything wrong with doing that.
BTW, since it's visible, I'd suggest getting chrome instead of the plastic.

EDIT: As mentioned in the comments below, the solution above is pretty easy, but will result in a more clog-prone drain since the water won't drain as fast, and there are more turns to clog up (and it will not snake easily). The more difficult solution is to open the wall (hope the plumbing is plastic and not iron) and move the sanitary tee higher, and then patch the wall back up.

  • 2
    I generally agree with this; however, the more 90s you put in a drain, the slower it will flow. Given the sink pedestal you are using, you have to gain some height to get the trap to fit, but instead of dbracey's 3 90* connectors, I would consider using a 45 out of the wall, then another 45 to get back to level, with a 90 to connect to the trap that then connects to the downpipe. The two 45s will "bend" the water less, allowing faster drainage. – KeithS Mar 27 '12 at 23:53
  • I was agreeing with the 45's, but I think coming out of the wall with a 45 will stick out too far. A 90 lets you route the whole mess back against the wall (by turning the 90 above it to point backwards). It's definitely a recipe for clogs. – dbracey Mar 28 '12 at 0:08
  • Thanks. I'll give it a try, and thanks for the chrome tip as well. If it clogs a lot I guess we will be opening the wall at a later date. – David Rinck Mar 28 '12 at 17:13

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