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I've replaced two faulty parts in my oven after a small explosion stopped it heating up, but I still have a problem.

  1. I replaced the fan element at the back.
  2. I replaced the thermal cut-out attached to the upper element.

Both were obviously dead. The element had a huge hole in it and the cut-out had no conductivity.

Here's the current situation:

  • The oven still won't heat up.
  • The grill does work (always did).
  • The temperature light comes ON, and never goes off.
  • The cooling fan runs constantly, even when the oven is OFF.
  • All heating elements show conductivity (26Ω-55Ω)

Worth mentioning that the thermostat seems to work, because the temperature light does turn off when using the grill to reach temperature.

Why does the cooling fan stay on and the elements stay cold?

What other parts can I check for faults?

Additional notes:

  • I'm confident new parts are wired correctly and securely
  • Mains input gives 233Ω between live/neutral when off. 111Ω when oven switched on.
  • New new cut-out is marked 16A, whereas the old part was 10A. Supplier assures me it's compatible with my oven.

Update:

I may have bought the wrong fan element by matching it to the product number on the part itself. I've opened a separate question about this.


Update 2:

The selector switch is fried. Copper melted between two connectors. Will fix or replace and post back if still not heating.

  • I have done repairs on an oven that had a failure , the short in the element took out some of the controlls on a small pc board behind the clock, mine was a convection but don't remember the model# had to order a new board , found a u tube video describing the failure and opened mine up and the board had smoked also. You may be able to find the info with brand and model, if memory serves the controll boards ranged from 60 to 120 depending on the model. – Ed Beal Jan 30 '18 at 18:46
  • After spending £50 on spare parts I'm not keen to buy a new board to then find out something else is fried. Is there any way to test the board is faulty? It has no burn marks. – Tim Jan 31 '18 at 9:03
  • @AndrewMorton IKEA/Electrolux 94406450601 See link in update – Tim Jan 31 '18 at 13:18
  • @Tim Which one of these Which IKEA oven are you? is it? – Andrew Morton Feb 1 '18 at 10:22
  • It's not a current line. The serial above is one of several that apply to old Ikea Framtid line FOV-601-562-20. Update: I think i've identified a fault in the switch. Investigating later today. – Tim Feb 1 '18 at 10:55
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I appreciate everyone's help with this, but I'm posting an answer myself a I'm the only person who can in this case.

The final cause of the oven not heating was a broken selector switch. See image.

enter image description here

With a new fan element, thermolimiter AND switch - the oven is heating up fully on all settings. Spare parts cost about £90.

I think I may have a further issue with the ventilator, but I'll post a new question about that if need be.

  • Sounds like a controll on an older model to me – Ed Beal Feb 6 '18 at 19:43
  • I don't follow. The control switch is direct from Electrolux and exact match for the oven model – Tim Feb 6 '18 at 20:31
  • @Tim I think that Ed might have meant as opposed to one of those new-fangled ovens with digital bits inside and triacs switching the current. – Andrew Morton Feb 7 '18 at 19:34
  • Ah, I see. The model does have a digital panel, but the analogue switch handles all the current switching for the various combinations of elements. – Tim Feb 7 '18 at 19:42
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As I said in the comment you need to look for the cause. I am not saying throw parts at it, but a place to look.is the controlls as I have had similar failures in the past. Google Electrolux oven won't heat, I did and repair clinic.com. causes 8 &9 are relay boards and the controll board. You already troubleshoot the fuse ( cause 6) in many cases the damage is obvious because the problem was big enough to blow the fuse. If you want to fix the oven looking at these components are the next step. Checking the relays with a meter to verify that the contacts are good would be one way , live power testing probably should be left for pros as we have the correct safety equipment, many of the relays are mechanical if you hear them click they are getting the signal but the contacts in that position may be burned open/ not conducting.

  • Thanks, I'll do my best to test the relays. So you don't think the problem is my buying the wrong fan element? – Tim Jan 31 '18 at 14:49
  • Don't think the fan would cause it not to heat or my oven they were not interlocked you could use the fan for convection, but have it off for fancy dishes. – Ed Beal Jan 31 '18 at 14:57

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