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I'm planning to make a concrete driveway by myself but planning to call a concrete truck for a pour. Problem is that my driveway is narrow and there is a hill on the right side. So the truck can't just go along the driveway from that side. The houses are built in a staircase style going down in a slight decline.

In my mind, the only possible way the truck can go is from the end to the front. My worry is that he will need to go over the bar reinforcement. I worry this will damage the rebar spacing.

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How is this type of concrete pouring done normally if this is the only way for the truck to go? Will I need to put the rebars in as the truck moves?

What is the minimum width of the concrete driveway in Ohio anyway?

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I'd have the rebar (or mesh) laid out and tied in manageable sections. Have a team of four or more people walk each section in the driveway out to the side during the inner pour. Walk them back into position as you work through the outer pour, following the truck's departure.

  • In this case, I won't be able to do it myself but need to get a crew. – Grasper Jan 26 '18 at 16:54
  • A pour that large pretty much mandates a crew, even if it consists of your neighbors with shovels. You can't expect to finish that much concrete yourself before it cures. I ran into trouble just doing a sidewalk and apron. – isherwood Jan 26 '18 at 17:04
  • (I assumed by "myself" you meant "without hiring a contractor". My mistake.) – isherwood Jan 26 '18 at 17:05
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    At a minimum you need 2 people to screed and 4 would be better since it is a large pour. For setting the mesh and the expansion joints, someone floating it and edgeing. I would not consider doing a job that size by my self when I was young. – Ed Beal Jan 26 '18 at 19:07
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I would use wire mesh on the driveway. The truck will be able to run over it no problem and then you pull it up before finishing.

  • I heard a wire mesh is a joke and not really a good concrete reinforcement. Especially for a driveway. I'm planning to add rebars. It might be ok for surfaces where cars don't drive on. Sports courts or similar. – Grasper Jan 26 '18 at 16:23
  • I work for a steel distributor. We have mesh in all of our floors and driveways. 40 Ton trucks run on the driveways all day long. We also have stacks of steel plate 200 Tons+ in 8' by 20' areas throughout the warehouse. We have never had a problem and have over an acre under roof. Floor is 16 years old. – Mike Jan 26 '18 at 16:30
  • Fair enough, but how does that answer the question, which was mostly about procedure? – isherwood Jan 26 '18 at 16:46
  • Truck can run on the mesh. All of the mesh can be layed out before the truck comes. – Mike Jan 26 '18 at 17:05
  • Possibly, but the same is true of rebar--depending on the firmness of the base material, significant deformation could occur. – isherwood Jan 26 '18 at 17:46
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Get all your Prep done all forming grading and rebar/mesh in place. Then get a concrete pumping contractor to place the concrete into your setup. Have multiple people onsite to screed concrete and smooth it as the pump places it . This can go very well with good team work. The truck won’t have to back into the driveway area at all .

  • Are they using long hoses with a pump or something? Do you have a picture how that looks like? That might be twice as expensive using a pump, don't you think? – Grasper Jan 26 '18 at 18:19
  • It is substantially more expensive, and I'm not sure they can pump that far anyway. Worth looking into, though. – isherwood Jan 26 '18 at 19:10
  • @Grasper where are you located? A.trailer mounted concrete pump contractor could give you a price for pumping based on the yardage and length of driveway. – Kris Jan 26 '18 at 19:38
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I would NOT use any reinforcing steel. Reinforcing steel is used for: 1) Flexural control (tension steel), or 2) Crack Control (temperature steel).

1) Flexural Control: When concrete “bends” , (like in concrete beams or elevated slabs,) the bottom of the section is in tension. Concrete is not good in tension, so reinforcing steel is used. This is NOT your issue.

2) Crack Control: When concrete is poured, it shrinks. That shrinkage is controlled by reinforcing steel and/or the size of the pour which is controlled by “control joints”.

Your situation is strictly bearing (no bending) so shrinkage can be controlled with “control joints”. Actually, a more accurate description is “shrinkage joints”, as concrete is the largest it’s ever going to be the day it’s poured. It will continue shrinking throughout its life. (Yes, in extreme hot climates it will expand, but never to its original installed size.)

I’d forget the reinforcing steel, especially reinforcing wire, because: 1) there’s never enough because it’s too small for the steel-concrete ratio required (See Pe factor), and 2) it’s always in the bottom, which causes cracks by keeping the bottom portion of the slab from shrinking during curing at the same rate as the top portion of the slab.

Depend on where you live, I’d keep the control joints 1) square, and 2) at about 12’ oc each way for exterior slabs. I’d check with some local contractors and verify my 12’ estimate. (It’ll be less in extreme hot-cold environments and more in temperate climates.)

  • Adding control joints is by default. You wouldn't put any reinforcement not even the mesh? – Grasper Jan 29 '18 at 14:42

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