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So I replaced all my kitchen outlets to white. I put all the wires exactly as I took them off. The wall outlets now will not work and the new GFCI outlet will not go hot. I took all the outlets back out to make sure none of the wire nuts came loose, even put the old GFCI outlet back in to make sure I didn’t have a bad GFCI. I am at a loss as to where to go to fix it?

  • Are all these receptacles on a single breaker? What type, standard or GFCI and what current rating? When you had installed all the new receptacles and turned the breaker back on did it immediately trip? – Jim Stewart Jan 14 '18 at 22:23
  • If you have the line and load connections correct on the GFCI try pressing the trip button and resetting, I ran into some newer gfci's that required a trip and reset to turn them on for the first use. – Ed Beal Jan 14 '18 at 23:10
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    Did any of the old receptacles have their tabs broken off? – Harper Jan 14 '18 at 23:54
  • If you plug an appliance into the nonworking GFCI, does the appliance get power? – Harper Jan 14 '18 at 23:55
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It sounds like you've reversed the line and load connections. Modern GFCIs ship in a tripped state and will not reset unless the connections are proper

  • Line - This connects to the previous line in the circuit. In other words, with the circuit breaker on, this will be your live wires
  • Load - This connects to the next outlets in the series. Anything on this end will be protected by the GFCI

Also, make sure you've not reversed the hot and neutral.

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With GFCI's there's a 2-step process to hooking them up.

Step 1 -- you connect only the LINE terminals - absolutely nothing on LOAD. (however if there were wires on the LOAD side, you may leave their grounds connected, you don't need to take that apart. Grounds bypass GFCIs and should never go through a GFCI.)

You get the GFCI working absolutely tip top and proper, just like that, before you proceed any further. Make sure that it has power, tests, resets, and delivers power to LOAD. Here, it really helps if it's a GFCI+receptacle combo device, because the sockets are on the LOAD side, and you can plug stuff into it for testing. Including a GFCI tester if you have one. (GFCI testers use a different mechanism to test, so their test is not redundant, but they only work if there's a real ground wired - if not, they won't work and don't worry about that.)

It is very important that it tests and resets. This protects you from a critical error: connecting the supply to the LOAD side. If you do that, the sockets will power up (they are on the LOAD side after all) and pass tests, but the GFCI will not work, the GFCI tester will not trip it, and power will not pass through to the LINE side.

Step 2 - Turn the power off again, and now, connect whatever wiring you may be connecting to the LOAD terminals if you are doing that. Then again, power up, and test the downline loads, including with a GFCI tester if grounds exist.

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