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I'm planning on getting IKEA OMLOPP lighting. However, since I would need multiple Ansluta transformers and they are quite expensive, I was wondering if its possible to use a regular LED driver instead.

The specs say it outputs 24VDC (constant voltage). Should I just get a constant-voltage 24VDC LED Driver then?

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    The Swedish Design Enforcement Division will fine you for straying outside of the IKEA paradigm, they will send you a letter that contains only diagrams ( no words ) to explain how to pay your fine. 😉 – Alaska Man May 4 '18 at 17:12
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In my freshly renovated kitchen I have a bunch of FÖRBÄTTRA 60cm LED light panels paired with an ANSLUTA 30W transformer and daisy chained 10W transformer (more 24V outputs) controlled by a 2.4GHz remote.

I can confirm the voltage levels at 0%, 50% and 100% brightness are 2.2V, 22V and 24V.

I was surprised to find that a 0% brightness (off) the panels were still supplied 2.2V!

The 30W IKEA driver says it provides 24VDC, 0~1.25A, 30W max.

The 10W IKEA driver says it provides 24VDC, 0~0.42A, 10W max.

On both drivers it says you can chain up to 10 drivers and each 220-240VAC input is rated at 2.5A.

The receiver board inside the transformer enclosure uses a Fairchild FDD8880 MOSFET, which may give you more clues. The 2.4GHz transceiver is a Texas Instruments CC2500 and can only pair with one remote at a time.

I can't see any technical reasons why you couldn't drive the panels with your own 24VDC source.

  • I'l assume there is more to 50% @ 22V and its not as simple as decreasing voltage to dim those lights? Probably safe to just go with a constant voltage 24VDC transformer? – tunafish24 May 5 '18 at 4:55
  • The "50% @ 22V" was actually incorrect. It was my cheap meter averaging it. It's a PWM signal and it's closer to 10V at the half brightness setting. – Mike Causer May 14 '18 at 23:50
  • @MikeCauser if the 22V @ 50% is incorrect, please also correct it in your answer – redfox05 Aug 27 at 7:38
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I can only answer this question as if I were a contractor. In general we order the drivers and material approved by the manufacturer. Meaning I would stay with the original equipment. If you choose not to use there approved equipment then it might cause damage to the entire system and void any warranty you may have for replacement. As a contractor I would recommend you stay with the original equipment or sign a release that we were not responsible for any damage and you understood that you would still have to pay me for the work performed.

Would you feel comfortable entering an agreement like that?

If you are wondering if the manufacturer would approve a different driver. You would have to see if they have them listed on their web site or call their Tech Line.

  • And if you've experienced Ikea brand (TM) DC power for yourself - which fortunately I have because I owed some money to the mob - it's more of an oakey, buttery. DC power, sort of more like a Sonoma Valley Reisling '07. Goes well with the Swedish meatballs. – Harper Dec 20 '17 at 15:50
  • ;^) Then some of us spent 2yrs building an IKEA kitchen and looked at their lighting and said "I can hack something cheaper" using eBay and Amazon HK LED strips and drivers. I have adjustable cool/warm white lighting in my kitchen now. – DaveM Aug 27 at 13:14

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