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My Hampton Bay ceiling fan with light is about 8 years old. The light recently burned out, so replaced with with a 100 E11 halogen 100 watt bulb, resulting in very little light - about 50 watts. I have since tried 150 haologen watt bulb, same results - about 50 watts shinning. I replaced the E11 socket, no change. The three-speed fan works okay. I have replaced the Hampton Bay remote control - no difference, so not the problem. What is the problem? Can the problem be in the the remote modual.

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    Are the lights dimmable? On my remotes, pressing and holding the light toggle will dim or brighten the lights. Check to see that the lights aren't dimmed – mmathis Dec 7 '17 at 19:33
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    What happens with a "150 watt" (more like 20) LED? GE sells an excellent one made to replace a 50/100/150 incandescent. One trick: if you power only the tip (as would happen in a non-3way socket), you get the 150 not the 100. Slick design trick, that's why GE is the best. Color temp is 2700k and CRI is very good, so hard to tell from a trad. incandescent. – Harper Dec 7 '17 at 22:33
  • Harper, you are a hero. I had always just pressed the on/off switch, never holding it down. Tried it just now and WOW, it moves to the bright position. Thanks – Dave Dec 8 '17 at 20:50
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The limiting circuit isn't just government nonsense. The bigger problem is the fan's mechanism is not made for that much heat. If you put a bulb whose watts-actual are larger than rating, you will slowly cook internal parts of the fan such as the wiring to the socket. We've seen overheated scorched light fixtures, it's not pretty.

A high-wattage lamp also defeats the purpose of a fan by adding heat to the room. Even if you want heat, it's the most expensive kind - electric.

I have been steadily increasing the light in my house by going LED. I know there,s some resistance to "gub'mint" bulbs, but LEDs actually won on the merits despite the government's best efforts to promote the dreadful CFLs. They have solved early color temperature and CRI problems, and now cannot be distinguished from incandescent. My favorite is a non-subsidized GE bulb that is 50/150/100W equivalent, and if used in a non-3way base, gives 150W (not 100W as a normal 3way bulb will). That is a wonderful bunch of light at around 20W actual, with no chance of scorching a fixture rated for 40-60W.

Sometimes, if the power limiting circuit is cheap (because the fan is cheap), it must be bypassed to play well with LEDs.

  • I had to bypass my wattage limiter because the dumb thing broke. I'm not so much interested in overloading my lights as I am in having a working light. – raterus Dec 8 '17 at 3:35
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Blame the government, these dumb things have wattage limiters, so you don't use too much electricity. It's an environmental thing, not a safety concern. They're pretty easy to remove if you're handy.

One of the many videos on Youtube on removal

  • I guess I have not messed with any newer fans that had lamps, good to know (although the video was not so great) it was enough. + – Ed Beal Dec 7 '17 at 23:32
  • Surely you meant "thank the government". Almost no one would be using LEDs right now if the Edison 60w hadn't been banned. Our planet would still be getting crapped up at four times the current tragic rate. – isherwood Dec 8 '17 at 3:01
  • The government did not ban them. You can buy them at the Target store in Berkeley, California. When they say the challenge "Welcome to Target" say the password "what aisle are the lightbulbs in?" Make sure you're not followed! – Harper Dec 8 '17 at 23:41

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