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I am looking to put a stud wall in my shower to house the valves and also a few niches, it needs to be a minimum of 150mm deep, so do I use standard 50mm x 100mm (2x4s) boards and offset the stud wall 50mm from the main wall or do I use a wider 150mm board?

I am covering the stud in concrete backer board so I could potentially bridge the gap with that if the wall is offset.

I also have another stud wall that will have a hanging vanity unit attached to it, will this need a double top plate?

Update: Hopefully the crude illustration I've added will help a bit (taken from a birds-eye view of the proposed stud):

enter image description here

  • I don't exactly understand your first question. You do not need a double top plate to hang a cabinet, but you might want to put in one or two horizontal 2x4s to support the hanging vanity unit. – Jim Stewart Dec 5 '17 at 12:59
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  1. You can move the framed wall into the room to provide clearance. Thus is a common practice.

  2. Most interior walls built alongside exterior walls have doubled too plates so wall heights match. Most basement energy and partition walls do not.

  • Ah ok, I assume if I was to move the framed wall any further into the room I'd need to batten the block wall flush with the outside edge of the framed wall to accept the overhang of the concrete backer board? – Fony Tinlay Dec 5 '17 at 14:49
  • I don't understand what gap and overhang you're referring to. – isherwood Dec 5 '17 at 15:39
  • I've updated the illustration above; the blue is the backer board extending to the wall to close off the gap behind the framing, the brown square is a batten which the backer board will be screw into. – Fony Tinlay Dec 5 '17 at 16:01
  • You can batten as you describe, or you can simply add a backer to the end of the framed wall that's slightly wider than the wall. You can span a small gap with cementboard. – isherwood Jun 20 '18 at 14:01

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