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Hello,

I am currently working on running a new water system from the city water to my house. I have several concerns:

Is PEX with sand a good method of running water from city to house? Will it withstand water pressure and not burst?

Which side is the homeowners responsibility? Or rather, which side am I changing the pipe on? If I cut the wrong side, we know amiss things happen. More information is described in the above image.

Also, given a 5/8" meter, what pipe size would be used for connecting the pipe from meter to house?

I probably shouldn't be asking more than 1 question in one thread, but the answer as to which side the homeowner is responsible is probably the most important.

Thanks in advance

  • Where are you on this planet? Many water utilities won't let you have a service that small...never mind that given the chance, upsizing to say 1.25" is wise to allow for future upgrades. – ThreePhaseEel Dec 3 '17 at 1:55
  • I had forgotten to add that! oops! I am in NC in the USA. And 1.25" vs what may have been 1" IP/CP to start, wouldn't cause pressure problems with the old (may not end up reusing) backflow preventer and pressure reducing valve? – AWolfFox Dec 3 '17 at 2:32
  • What is the backflow preventer in there for, and what kind of backflow preventer is it? – ThreePhaseEel Dec 3 '17 at 3:23
  • You'll have to check with the local building department to be sure what's allowed. I believe most (all) codes allow PEX as a service supply pipe. However, you'll likely have to bury a tracer wire with the pipe, since it's nonmetallic (see local codes for tracer wire requirement, and installation instructions). International Plumbing Code (and maybe others), require the supply line to be at least 3/4", and to be sized based on the calculated requirements of the building. So without knowing more about the building, there's no way to say what size pipe is required. Other than at least 3/4". – Tester101 Dec 4 '17 at 13:19
  • If you contact the local building department, they should have no trouble answering your questions. They can also tell you what codes they use, so you can look up information on the internet. If you tell use what code they use, we should be able to provide more accurate information. I'm pretty sure International Plumbing Code (IPC), Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), and possibly others are available in read-only formats on the internet (though it may require a free user account to gain access). – Tester101 Dec 4 '17 at 13:23
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I have not seen a minimum code for size on the customer side, with that said most homes do have a minimum of 3/4" pipe with 1" being common on longer distances.

All of the properties I have owned the customer was responsible after the meter. In 1 town I did have to replace the meter, the meter had to be purchased from the city.

I would go with 1" to reduce any pressure drop to the home. I would check with the city or water district to make sure there are no restrictions or requirements you may be unaware of. I have seen PVC, copper, and galvanized pipe used to connect to city water systems.

Since you did not say anything about the age of your home it was common in years past to use incoming water line as the grounding electrode. If you replace the line with non metallic please check your grounding electrode system. I have found several homes that had their supplies updated with PVC that removed the ground and did create a hazard but 2 new ground rods needed to be added to these houses to make the electrical system safe again.

  • Where I live, around Pittsburgh, Pa. most water authorities require a back flow preventer on all domestic water lines, installed after the water meter to prevent contamination of a public water supply in case of a drop in main supply line pressure. As far as my domestic water is piped, when my house was built 20 years ago, the water authority allowed 3/4" copper from the street, to a 5/8" water meter, then a back flow preventer, and a down stream shut-off valve. – d.george Dec 3 '17 at 14:25
  • If the house was to be grounded by iron pipe, but most of the pipe in entirety was left there, would it still be considered grounded? I know this may seem like a silly question – AWolfFox Dec 5 '17 at 2:54
  • At least 10' in direct contact with earth is required. The problem I found was when the main was removed the remains metal pipe under the home was quite shallow and the measured resistance ( 4 point method used) was over 5000 ohms in 1 home and close to 1000 on another, both had well over 20' of pipe in contact code states 25 ohms unless 2 ground rods or a ufer (concrete encased) are used then it is not required to be measured. – Ed Beal Dec 5 '17 at 14:08
  • I just realised you said you are leaving the pipe in place. It should be ok as long as the grounding conductor to the pipe is still connected you might want to bond the old pipe to the house plumbing where the new main is conected to provide the best ground. – Ed Beal Dec 5 '17 at 14:20

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