My home is located at illinois,which is built at 1958. I can see 8 roof vents on my root but one contractor say I need to install soffit vents as well.

But I can see some slot on my soffits actually as below: enter image description here

And from the attic, I can not see if it's connected to the soffit area or not since it's too tight and I almost can not get a clear picture:

enter image description here

Is it necessary to open my soffits and create a hole to connect to soffit vents? I am thinking about it should be done during building the house, but not sure old house always has such issue!

  • What problem are you trying to solve? – isherwood Nov 21 '17 at 20:59
  • I see that you had mold remediation done in the attic in the past. That is why your attic is painted grey. Have you resolved your soffit vent situation? Make sure that you have enough vents throughout the soffit. Ideally you want one vent under each rafter since rafters act as channels for air to pass through to your ridge vents. – maschinetheist Sep 29 '18 at 14:31

That's unvented soffit. The vented variety has a pattern of slots punched into it on the flats. My guess is that there's plywood underneath, and it wasn't deemed necessary to open it up before covering it with maintenance-free aluminum soffit.

You may be able to do this to get venting in place:

  1. Remove the aluminum soffit by detaching the fascia and pulling the nails along the bottom edge that secure the soffit panels.
  2. Cut a channel in the original wood soffit. Whatever you can conveniently remove with a circular saw will probably be adequate. It's a messy, gritty, upside-down job, so have some eye and respiratory protection on hand.
  3. Reinstall the aluminum soffit and fascia, but replace every other panel with vented soffit. You could also use all vented panels, or the variety that's partially vented. Since you (presumably) don't have taller energy heels on your rafters, that'll be plenty of vent area.
  4. In the attic, install vent baffles. These create a channel up over the wall plate and along the roof sheathing, past the level of the insulation.
  5. Install additional vents near the ridge to meet modern standards based on attic area. Do not install gable vents or vents lower on the roof. You want as complete an airflow path along the roof as possible.

Note that this would need to be done on eaves (at wall level), but not on rakes (on gable ends).

As a lower-cost (but somewhat less effective) solution, Use a hole saw to cut through both the aluminum and plywood soffits, then install round louvers every 6-12 inches.

  • The soffit is nailed from below to 2x4s above the soffit and perpendicular to the wall. When cutting holes for the eave vents how does one insure that the holes are between these 2x4s? (The volume builder of our tract house put in sofit vents on the rakes too. What is the effect of this? The next time I paint should I cover those and what would be the best way to do it?) – Jim Stewart Nov 21 '17 at 23:54
  • That's a lot of questions, Jim. Maybe you ought to put up a new post. :) There may be occasional blocking supporting the plywood soffit, but that's not how aluminum soffit is fastened. It typically spans from the wall to the sub fascia. If drilling through both, it doesn't really matter if you hit a cross block. You could just keep drilling and take enough wood out to fit the louver in there. – isherwood Nov 22 '17 at 1:14
  • I doubt your rakes are fully vented. The builder probably used vented soffit panels to maintain a consistent look all the way around the house. Even if there are gaps over the gable truss, it probably won't have much of a negative effect on a fully vented roof that meets modern standards. – isherwood Nov 22 '17 at 1:16

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