The wall outlet is burned out after using a 120v heater. I was able to pull the orange cord out of it. The outlet is blackened, and the smell of burned odor has stopped . What is required to get this fixed?
First, let's address the cause of the problem for safety. Something was drawing too much power for the wiring, but not enough to trip the breaker. This means that there was a weak link somewhere. I suspect either a bad cord end or a faulty outlet. If the outlet was old, it probably had a weak grasp on the cord prongs.
The outlet must be replaced. It has been damaged and is a further safety risk. It's an inexpensive fix, but one that requires a basic understanding of house wiring and connection techniques. Many tutorials can be had online, but the details of your repair depend on some things you haven't shared, such as the age of the home and the outlet type.
Most likely this was caused by a bad connection somewhere. That bad connection may have been between the fixed wiring and the outlet, between the outlet and the plug or between the plug and the flexible cord, or a wirenut where wires are pigtailed.
Anything that is heat-damaged needs to be removed/replaced. How difficult this is depends on what exactly was heat-damaged. If there is significant heat damage to the fixed wiring then it may be necessary to relocate the outlet box or even add a second box to allow cutting back to good wire.
We have used a 120-V 1500-W heater (so 12.5 A draw) in our garage with no problems. Overheating of your receptacle was almost certainly due to a fault in the receptacle--loose wire or equivalent.
What is the listed power consumption of your heater in W? What is the size of the breaker on this circuit? Is the conductor serving this receptacle copper or aluminum and what gauge-- #14 or #12?
It is possible, but not likely, that the heater malfunctioned (short circuited), that the breaker failed to trip, and this was the highest resistance in the circuit so it overheated. To rule out this possibility, put a new plug on the heater and test it in another receptacle on a different breaker. If you have a VOM (volt-ohm meter, usually also can be used to measure current), you could test the resistance of the heater before you go to the trouble of putting on a new plug. If the resistance would be much less than 8 Ohm, you would have a problem using this heater on a wall receptacle.
At the very least the receptacle will have to be changed. Check the ends of the wires where they connect to the receptacle to see if they were overheated. Look for burned insulation and scorched wire. If you see this, the damaged wire would have to be cut off. If you do not have enough wire to cut off any then say so and we can discuss what to do in that case.
It could be that the heat damage is limited to the receptacle, but it is possible that severe overheating could damage a plastic electrical box. Is the box badly scorched?
Outlets are easy to replace and cheap builders grade outlets do have problems with being fully loaded. First get a spec grade outlet these cost a few more dollars than the less than 2 dollar builders grade outlets but are made to much higher quality standards. Next turn off the breaker and verify the line is the correct one that was turned off. Remove the cover, remove the 2 screws holding the outlet in place and pull out of wall. Inspect the wiring if all is good move the wires from the existing outlet to the new outlet. The blacks wire goes to the brass colored screw(s) , the white wires go to the silver colored screws and the bare goes to the green screw. If back stabs were used a small screwdriver or a piece of 14 gauge wire can be pressed into the slot next to the hole the wire is in to release it (don't cut off unless damaged) if the outlet is wired differently take a photo so you can make the same connections. Push the outlet and wire back in attach the 2 screws then the cover. Now turn the breaker on and it should be good. I like using an outlet tester to verify wiring is correct they can be purchased where you get the outlet. Testers cost from 5-15$ depending on the brand and features like a GFCI test button and are a good tool to have I have several and so does the inspector that signs my jobs.
First off that receptacle and wiring that it is on is not designed to handle a portable electric space heater. These situations regularly cause fires. Sounds like you came perilously close to one yourself. If you need to run a portable space heater from this location you need a dedicated 20-Amp circuit on a spec-grade receptacle just for that heater alone. Also please don't use any extension cords. Plug the heater directly into the receptacle. Then replace this heater. It is clearly damaged. My wife says that I tend to come off as heavy handed (I don't mean to) I just believe that hard truth is often the best truth. P.
Most likely what happened was a defective receptacle, particularly a problem where the wire attaches to the receptacle (and I bet a backstab is involved). All the parts should have been able to handle the power.
Call an electrician or handyman. It's hard to guess an asker's skill level from a question, especially a short one, but I get the impression you've never taken a cover plate off before, let alone located a breaker. These skills are learnable, but the urgency of finishing will tend to get in the way of learning.
Other than that, if you have the necessary kit (wire stripper, screwdrivers, electrical tape, wire nuts, scraps of wire), changing a receptacle is a pretty easy job and you can upgrade to a better quality receptacle for about $3.
There's a possibility you'll run into something complicated, eg aluminum wiring that needs a much more complex approach; that's where all the learning really needs to come into play, and why it's not necessarily the best thing for a newbie to do unassisted.
I just had a similar one that I caught early, I went to unplug a dehumidifier and the plug was warm and the receptacle was hotter. Turned off the breaker, popped the cover, someone had crammed a #12 stranded wire into a backstab (which are made for #14 solid), causing 2/3 of the strands to fold back. Fixed it in 10 minutes, plus another 20 to pop off all the other receptacles in that remodel and make sure the same thing hadn't been done anywhere else. (It hadn't).