I am not getting 120 @ my hot to neutral in my dryer receptacle For my dryer outlet h1-h2 =240, h1 -n <40 , h2-n <20 does this mean that i have no ground at the box?
With no 120 v reading the grounded and or grounding lugs going to a main panel are open. This happens at the outlet quite frequently. I mentioned both because it was not stated if it was a 3 or 4 wire.
Do Not Plug The Dryer In!
This is a dangerous condition if you have the obsolete 3-prong dryer plug (called NEMA 10-30). It will electrify the chassis of the dryer near 120V, while the chassis of the nearby washing machine is grounded, as well as slop sink valves, light switch plates, etc.
This is because when NFPA (authors of the electrical code) started requiring grounds (thus NEMA 14 on dryers), they allowed grandfathering of the old NEMA 10 receptacles, and officially sanctioned getting ground by bootlegging it from neutral. This is not safe, because now instead of the chassis floating, now the chassis is tied to neutral. A neutral break means the 120V parts of the dryer are trying to return 120V to source, via neutral, there's no path, so the appliance side of the neutral break is "pulled up" to 120V.
NEMA 10 was outlawed in the, when, 80s? But what happens in the real world is this:
- Susan has an older house with a NEMA 10 receptacle
- Susan buys a new dryer with a NEMA 14 plug, and installers change the plug to NEMA 10
- later, Susan sells this dryer on Craigslist
- Jim has a newer house with proper NEMA 14 receptacle
- Jim buys Susan's dryer, finds NEMA 10 cord, changes socket to NEMA 10
- Karen buys Jim's house, changes her modern dryer plug to NEMA 10
- Jim's new house has NEMA 14, he changes to NEMA 10 again
Thus, NEMA 10 spreads like a virus.
Seize the moment. Don't even bother trying to troubleshoot your problem, just pull some 10/3 cable and upgrade to NEMA 14 and bedone with it!