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I have some 11" tall baseboard that I've salvaged from my house. I need to cut a number of outside corner miters where the angle of the miter cut is greater than 45 degrees. The corner is approximately 88 degrees. So the miter cut needs to be at 46 degrees.

Since the baseboard is taller than the miter fence, I cannot make the cut with the baseboard vertical. So the cut needs to be made with baseboard on the flat (on the bed of the miter saw).

Unfortunately, the miter saw can only bevel up to 45 degrees. How can I make these cuts?

Also, cutting on a table saw is not an option due to the length of the baseboard

  • Is this a sliding miter saw? – Jim Stewart Oct 13 '17 at 15:14
  • It is not. It is a 12" miter saw. But, I can make the full cut on the flat if I put a piece of 3/4" plywood on the bed to raise work piece. – awarmack Oct 13 '17 at 15:25
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    Shouldn't the angles be 1/2 of 88 deg so 44 deg each? I guess you are taking the angles the way they are marked on the miter saw (angle from 90 deg)> Is this a double bevel miter saw? – Jim Stewart Oct 13 '17 at 15:37
  • Per geometry, if you raise the edge of the work piece that you're cutting towards by 1 degree, the resulting cut angle will be 1 degree shallower. I haven't actually done it so I'll just leave this as a comment. – Robert Nubel Oct 13 '17 at 15:42
  • I was thinking the same thing as @Robert Nubel: raising the end of the 3/4" plywood by a few degrees should put the bevel in range. – Jim Stewart Oct 13 '17 at 15:54
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Based on what you have said, the only way I can think to do this would be to create a jig that raises the angle of the baseboard to the correct angle. In this case you need to raise it by one degree. However, with a change that small I'm not sure how easy it will be to build the jig.

What I would do is build a jig that raises it more. Depending on the miter saw, you should have some sort of bevel guide. Hopefully this is in degrees, but it may be just some preset notches with the degrees noted. Regardless, I would build a jig that raises it by either at least 5 degrees possibly 10 degrees (either way you will need to support the work piece, but the steeper the angle the more difficult to support. This would mean you would cut at 41 or 36 degrees. Depending on the precision of the equipment you are using, it may be easier to build the jig to either 6 degrees or 11 degrees and cut and set your saw to 35 or 40 degrees as appropriate.

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    I used this method this weekend and it worked quite well. – awarmack Oct 17 '17 at 18:47
  • Glad to hear it worked. – Haendler Oct 17 '17 at 18:48
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sometimes when I have needed to change the angle a very small amount, I will add some very thin shim-stock underneath the piece to prop up one end a small amount. like index cards, etc., maybe a little trickier with a large piece, but the same idea

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