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I have a GE slide-in electric range. The front right (large) burner stopped working completely. I replaced the infinite switch and the burner works but the element doesn't get red hot like the others. It can barely boil water.

I noticed the insulation on the top blue wire was slightly darkened and stiff ( so I cut the wire back and soldered the spade onto freshly exposed wire (I couldn't bend the spade clamps back and I didn't have an extra spade). Could this solder job be why the burner is not getting as hot? I've switched the element with the other and they both will get red hot on the functioning left-side pod.

Any ideas? Many thanks!

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    'the top blue wire' means nothing to us. Need pictures, and/or a schematic. – Billy C. Oct 8 '17 at 1:55
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    since solder melts, you're not supposed to solder things that get hot. if the wire on the switch was burnt, that's not good, and you likely need to replace the heating elements, or worse. – dandavis Oct 8 '17 at 5:41
  • thanks guys. I'll replace the solder with a spade and report back with pics. – Hairgami_Master Oct 9 '17 at 3:44
  • Solder should never be used on element connections. There are high temp connectors for this use do not use standard tin plated copper connectors or you might just find after a few heat cycles the wrong connectors get loose and start arcing. I have made this mistake many years ago and it burned the end off the element lucky the breaker tripped when the wire hit the metal. – Ed Beal May 25 '18 at 17:34
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Different burners need different infinite switches. My large burners require a switch rated for 8.9-11A while the smaller burners require a lower current (4-7A if I remember correctly). If you bought a switch designed for a small burner to operate your large burner, it will get warm but not very hot.

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The burner showed continuity on a volt meter but moving it around to different receptacles and infinite controls did not change anything. It refused to get red hot. I replaced it with a new burner and it works fine.

I'm leaving this here in case someone has a similar problem. The parts store told me that if the element showed continuity then that meant that it was working fine. I told them the element wouldn't burn bright red in any receptacle on my range when all the others could be moved around and worked fine on any receptacle.

I believe the burner was getting old or was shorting out or something that caused the infinite control to fail. Once I replaced the infinite control, the burner would work, but only somewhat. I'm guessing if I continued using that element for a while it would destroy another infinite control.

  • A better answer to your own question would include the resistance of the new element and the old one. Also see my above comment on using the proper high temp connectors and never solder. – Ed Beal May 25 '18 at 17:37

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