My dryer recently started turning off during its cycle (after 20-30ish minutes), including the (digital) control panel being completely unresponsive. After 30-60 minutes, it will work again normally and shut off.

The dryer is a Samsung DV350AEG/XAC 04.

Samsung DV350AEG/XAC

I've read this is indicative of a motor failure, but I'm not clear on the reason or why this is causing the control panel to go dead also (as opposed to indicating an error code of some sort).

Here's the wiring diagram:

wiring diagram

I've checked:

  • Heater circuit overall resistance is ~9Ω (measured between (2) and (3))
  • TH2 and TH3 cut-offs seem to be okay, at ~0Ω (measured between (1) and (2))
  • Motor circuit overall resistance is ~2.08Ω (measured between (4) and (7) with door closed), however immediately after it malfunctioned I measured it at 2.4Ω
  • TH1 cut-off seem to be okay, at ~0Ω (measured between (5) and (6))
  • Door switch is functioning properly
  • Voltage is fine (L1-L2 is ~240V, L1 or L2 to N or G are ~120V, and N to G is 0V)

I did find an shocking amount of lint in the bottom, but the motor itself certainly wasn't coated to the point I would think it would overheat. I cleaned all of this out (used compressed air for the motor windings) but it's still cutting out.

lint in bottom of dryer motor

Is there anything else I should check?

  • Have you checked all the thermal cutouts at the time of the shutdown?
    – Michael Karas
    Sep 10, 2017 at 23:44
  • I'll see what I can do - I'm pretty sure I have to take the drum out to test TH1 in isolation, but I might be able to get at TH2+TH3 with just the front panel off. I kind of expect the failure of those to result in either no heat or no spinning, and/or an error code being displayed (as opposed to acting the same as if it's not even plugged in), but I guess that is not necessarily the way these work.
    – gregmac
    Sep 11, 2017 at 0:27
  • Look at your black feed from the outlet/source. heck, make sure you have power at the Outlet just for GP's. Then pop open the control board contacts area (whether it is molex or board mounted) check for oxidization or burning, or loose connections on the black line side (as this controls the panel and the motor). Does your model have the special lamp? Does the lamp work?
    – noybman
    Sep 11, 2017 at 4:26
  • Also, (4) to its adjacent pin, which appears to be a top level representation of the control board acting as a SPST switch, check the control board overall. It might also have a thermal cutoff not pictured.
    – noybman
    Sep 11, 2017 at 4:29

2 Answers 2


Yes, Check the vent pipe all the way to the end where it exits the building. You will most likely find that it is stuffed with lint to the point of restricting the air flow from the dryer to the outdoors. Restricted air flow will cause the inside of the dryer to overheat and then some type of safety cutout or thermal breaker is opening up the power circuit. The 30 to 30 minutes you are seeing is likely the time it takes for things to cool back down enough for the thermal cutout to reset itself.

If the vent pipe is clear you should feel a nice brisk flow of warm damp air coming out the end of the dryer vent.

I had this problem when I moved into my house. Some 15 feet of vent pipe was totally stuffed and I had to do a major amount of unstuffing and running a rotary brush up the pipe on a flexible shaft. I also ended up adding a new larger style vent end flap on the pipe on the side of the house wall that integrated a removable plastic grille. Now I just have to look at that once every 3-4 months and get up there and clean it out.

  • No flow restrictions. I replaced the exterior vent myself a couple years ago. The new one has a styrofoam ball-type damper, ~1.5' of rigid straight pipe, and about 1' of flex pipe (just enough so I can connect it and push it back against the wall). I have a great view of the entire exhaust and it's perfectly clear. I don't have a frame of reference to compare against because I never checked before, but the air coming out from outside seems like what I'd expect -- it doesn't seem restricted at all.
    – gregmac
    Sep 10, 2017 at 23:22
  • Well good to hear that the duct is short and clear. Mine has almost 20 feet up a wall and between garage ceiling joists before exit.
    – Michael Karas
    Sep 10, 2017 at 23:43

I ended up eventually discovering it was the main control board (or "relay board").

Because the behaviour really seemed like overheating, I sat the control board on top of the dryer housing (still connected), and was able to run a full cycle if I had a fan pointed at the board keeping it cool.

I ordered a new board, swapped it over, and it's working great again.

enter image description here

Stupidly, the control board comes in a plastic hosing and the whole thing is filled with epoxy, which makes testing and fixing any individual components extremely difficult.

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