I'm buying a power miter saw sometime this week; and early birthday present to myself. What should I consider and what brands do you all recommend? I'm not a contractor, web guy by trade, and do mostly weekend projects.

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    It'd be helpful to know what sort of projects you do, and what your budget is. Your profile doesn't include your location, so again might help to know at least which country you're in. Aug 14, 2010 at 6:56

3 Answers 3


There are a few different things to look at:

  1. Compound vs. Non-Compound - This refers to the kind of cuts you can make with it. A compound saw can both swivel and tilt. A non compound saw usually just does one or the other. Almost all miter saws are compound, and that is probably what you want.

  2. Sliding vs. Non-Sliding - A sliding saw will let you cut bigger boards (2x10, 2x12, etc) but will be more expensive and quite a bit bulkier. I have a sliding saw, but honestly find that I hardly ever use the sliding feature. How often you use it will depend on how often you work with larger boards (2x8, 2x10, 2x12)

  3. 10" vs. 12". A 10" saw is good enough for most work and less expensive, but can only cut up to about a 2x6 in a single cut (unless it's a sliding saw). A 12" saw will cut 2x8 boards in a single cut. You can also cut 4x material easily on a 12" saw, while a 10" saw won't quite make it all the way through.

My suggestion - if you plan on using it mostly for trim or framing work, buy a 10" compound non-sliding saw. If you plan to use it a lot for decking or outdoor work with larger boards or 4x material, get a 12" saw, maybe sliding if it's in your budget.

As for quality items, here are a few things to look at:

  1. Does the miter gauge look accurate? Is it easy to read? If you adjust the saw, can you easily set it to within one degree of accuracy?

  2. Once you adjust the angle and set it, how tightly does it lock in? If it feels "sloppy" you'll have a hard time getting nice cuts.

Brand wise, DeWalt makes some really nice ones, as does Hitachi.

  • This pretty much says it all.
    – ChrisF
    Aug 14, 2010 at 15:46
  • I love the DeWalt 12" sliding compound. Aug 14, 2010 at 18:54
  • What, no recommendation for sighting lasers? (does anyone besides Norm Abrahams even have one with a laser? And yes, I know, they've gotten cheaper, I just can't justify replacing mine)
    – Joe
    Aug 15, 2010 at 12:17
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    Coming from a 10-inch owner: definitely get a 12-inch. My 10-inch Hitachi cannot cut all the way through a 4x4 or a 1.25x6 at an angle, and that gets very annoying very quickly. Aug 16, 2010 at 18:09
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    @chris - it's not so important for framing, but much more so for trim work, especially crown or tall baseboard. Oct 25, 2010 at 17:15

I'd add that going to a 12" is a more practical upgrade than going to a sliding saw. Some sliders can have some side-to-side slop not found in non-sliders. Also keep in mind that for the price of the nicer miter saws, you could get a perfectly serviceable miter saw and a table saw for working with wider materials.

Another distinction not yet mentioned is single-bevel vs double-bevel. The double-bevels are more expensive because the motor has to be moved back away from the blade axis. For certain types of work such as doing crown molding it's a handy feature. I went with a single-bevel and rarely miss it.

For cutting guides, I've found the Dewalt LED work light far superior to their laser module. The work light is positioned directly above the blade, casting a shadow of the blade on the workpiece that shows where both sides of the blade will hit, without any adjustment. As a bonus it provides some general illumination of the saw table.

  • +1 for the last note on guides. I hate it that the laser guide is only for one side of the cut. When cutting baseboards I often need the other side too. I'll see if my saw's work light can function like you've described.
    – Eli Iser
    Jul 26, 2012 at 7:14

The only thing I'd add to Eric's answer is to make sure you look at the most expensive model you can afford even it if has features you might not need. It's likely to be better quality and more durable that cheaper models (though unfortunately that's not guaranteed).

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