First time home buyer looking for good advice about possibly raising a sunken 2 room addition ourselves. Wood frame, the sill is in good shape no rotting.

No warping or "cupping" of the rooms. The floors are flat, just sloping toward the backyard about 2".

The joists run parallel to the house rather than perpendicular.

Seems like they never footed these two rooms properly when they added them, as the exterior edge is resting on cinder blocks placed into the soil.

  • How many footing do I need to dig?
  • What size Sona tube should I use?
  • Do I need to dig new footings underneath the rooms, close to the original foundation or just the outer edges near the yard?
  • One of the rooms has a drop ceiling and one is a screened in porch, do I need to remove these before jacking up?
  • One room has a laundry hookup on the interior wall, should that be OK?
  • There is an interior window on the dividing wall above that middle support, will that be OK?

house exterior

  • You haven't really asked a question, which makes your post off-topic. Please edit to ask something more specific in agreement with the network guidelines. – isherwood Aug 17 '17 at 19:00
  • Welcome to Home Improvement Stack Exchange. Please take the tour at diy.stackexchange.com/Tour to get the most out of this site - esp how best to formulate a question.. – SDsolar Aug 17 '17 at 21:00
  • While the realtor may have called it a 2 room addition, are you sure that it is not just a porch (or even a deck) that is slowly being enclosed. Going from a porch to a proper addition can take a lot of work. – StrongBad Aug 22 '17 at 13:04
  • Thanks for replying StrongBad, the room on the right is a screened in porch with wood floor. The room on the left is insulated room. We want to leave the screened in porch as is, but just try to level it. – Wakefielder Aug 22 '17 at 13:07
  • @Wakefielder (if you use @ I will get a ping notification) my question/comment was if the insulated room was just a screened in porch (or even uncovered deck) at some point and the screened in porch just a roofless deck at some point. If they were converted you need to know if the work permitted, inspected, and up to code. – StrongBad Aug 22 '17 at 13:16

You can do it but there may be complications. When stabilizing a job like this I would want to pour a few new footings much larger than what you have and probably add a few. When jacking the frame everything from roof leaks, doors not closing and broken pipes are a possibility.

  • Thanks for taking the time to reply Mr. Beal - I had a contractor friend recommend these "ready made footings" you drop into the holes. Any experience with those? EDIT - meaning you don't have to pour the cement into the tube it comes already formed. – Wakefielder Aug 22 '17 at 13:10
  • Adding standard premade blocks will work and I have used these many times. For areas that have had settling problems I like digging the holes out a bit wider and pouring to reduce the possibility of movement but premade will work and requires less work. – Ed Beal Aug 22 '17 at 13:25
  • thanks again for your time here - these columns still would go down below the frost line and flare out like a clarinet at the bottom. Like you said I would have to dig a wider hole but negligible amount of work at that point. Do you think two per side would work? Also, pouring under the porch would be a bit tight. Ive been told it would be squirrelly and more expensive to back up a cement truck and do the chute thing. – Wakefielder Aug 22 '17 at 13:30
  • Yes pouring is much harder several more will help I would go with your contractors suggestion here because he knows the local conditions and has looked at your job. If we have helped up vote on the answer or comments this tells the community that you have found the help you were looking for or a possible path forward. – Ed Beal Aug 22 '17 at 13:37

Your question is a bit broad and vague for our Q&A format, but here's an outline. I assume 3 beams extending out perpendicular to the home at the current post locations.

  1. Lift the addition at least 1/4" above the desired final level using suitable jacks on lumber bases under each beam, and interior far enough to not interfere with the rest of the work. Use common sense and err on the side of caution. A mistake here could kill you.
  2. Remove the concrete block "footings" and pour proper footings according to local code and appropriate frost depth, extending to grade or slightly above.
  3. Install new, pressure treated 6x6 posts under the beams, plumb in all directions.
  4. Lower the addition onto the beams and fasten in place.

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