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I want to mount a TV using a basic TV mount. I do not want to mount onto the exterior wall and the back roof truss does not have a joist hanger so I can't use a side-facing TV mounting plate.

The two blue posts bear the load of my roof and are 4x6 (4x5.5). What is the proper method to attach a horizontal board so I can then mount a TV mount to it?

I was thinking of using a 2x10 (so when I mount the TV mount the bolts are at least 2" from the top and bottom edges) and attaching them to the inside-facing faces using joist hangers. I'd likely use 10D nails to connect joist hanger to beams and 10d 1.5" nails where the hanger connects to the horizontal board. Any ideas or thoughts are much appreciated!

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  • So you'd put a joist hanger on each of the black 4x6 posts and mount the 2x10 across the window, supported at each end? – brhans Jul 11 '17 at 18:23
  • What's the span between the two posts? – mmathis Jul 11 '17 at 18:41
  • Have you thought about a screen and a projector instead of a TV? How big (and heavy) is the TV. You might be able to suspend it on wires/cables or a high cross beam to keep it looking a little cleaner. – StrongBad Jul 11 '17 at 19:07
  • Thanks all. @brhans, yes, I am thinking to put a joist hanger on each of the posts and mount a 2x10 across the window. It will not touch the window and that window never opens so I don't mind. – habrockc Jul 11 '17 at 19:46
  • @mmathis The span is between 7 and 8 feet between the two posts. – habrockc Jul 11 '17 at 19:46
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Your 2x10 idea is just fine. I wouldn't use hangers, though. They'll be ugly.

I'd do this:

  1. Cut a 2x10 beam to length, fitting it between the posts.
  2. Mount pairs of slotted bed rail brackets to the back side of the board, flush with the ends, one high and one low.
  3. Set heavy screws as appropriate to engage the slotted brackets.
  4. Paint the board and hang it.

Either that or simply mount it to the outer faces of the posts with nice screws. If you fit it well, that would look fine. It really depends on how deep you want the tv to be.

  • In order for both sides to be inserted I'd have to have some wiggle room to "pull" one post outward in order for the bracket's "teeth" to be placed into the receiving bracket. Unless they make flush-mount side-insertion bed rail brackets. ?? – habrockc Jul 11 '17 at 19:51
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    That's exactly what I'm suggesting. Here's an example. – isherwood Jul 11 '17 at 20:28
  • Oh okay. And would you recommend using 10D nails (3") into the beams or deck screw? What fasteners into the 2x10? I'm overly worried about shear strength (mount + TV is around 60 lbs.). – habrockc Jul 11 '17 at 22:27
  • No nails. Screws in the 3" range. The head style is up to you. – isherwood Jul 12 '17 at 1:50
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If the span is more than 10 ft you might think about making something like a nice looking header beam by sandwiching OSB between 2 2x8's or 2X10's this will give you a lot more strength and be less wobbly. If you do go with the standard galvanized beam hangers you first mentioned you should use galvanized 'Tico' nails, not your common 10D sinker.

Otherwise to look the best, and spend more $$, you could get a GluLam beam and use decorative exposed bolt brackets to attach to your verticals.

Just some brainstorms for you.

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