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I have a Scotsman dce33pa 1sc ice machine. My problem is the water will not shut off. The pump continually pumps water out. I replaced the inlet water valve but that did not help.

  • Is there voltage at the inlet valve and pump constantly? – ThreePhaseEel Jun 17 '17 at 15:51
  • Your cycle timer is likely bad. Turn it manually with a screwdriver and see if that advances the cycle. That model fills with water, recirculates that water and sprays it into upside down refrigerated cubes, at the end of the timed freeze cycle, the compressor has a hot gas reversing valve that warms the cube cup ejecting the cubes by gravity, just after this the pump switches from recirculation and drains the leftover mineral heavy water from that cycle. And then starts over. – Tyson Jun 18 '17 at 20:54
  • That model also has a non-refriderated bin, it's insulated but by design there is constant slow meltage to keep the ice fresh. There are really 3 reasons for water to be existing the machine: 1) meltage 2) mineral heavy water leftover after the freeze cycle is ejected during the harvest cycle. 3) there is a tank overflow that shouldn't ever discharge but it could if the inlet valve has debris or calcium buildup and won't seat fully closed. – Tyson Jun 18 '17 at 21:24
  • Thank you Tyson. I have been away for a couple of weeks. I will try your advice. Thanks again – John Parker Jun 30 '17 at 1:18
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Theres a timer on your ice maker that turns on and off when your sensor detects that there no more ice in the tray, my icemaker timer opens the water supply valve to fill up the ice maker for about 5 to 7 seconds. most probably you have to replace the timer

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  • Runs on a timer, +1. That's why if there's low flow you get hollow cubes. – Mazura Sep 21 '18 at 0:38
  • I've never had a bad timer, but plenty of stuck or broke solenoid valves. I'd start by replacing that, because even if that's not the problem (90% chance IMO) it's been on for weeks. – Mazura Sep 21 '18 at 0:49
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In all likely hood there is a sensor or switch assembly that detects when the cube trays are filled and that then cuts off the drive signal to the inlet water valve when they are filled. Your failure is likely to be this sensor being broken, missing or out of adjustment.

The sensor could be any number of types and will depend entirely upon the nature of the design of your particular ice maker. It could be a mechanism that detects the water level, detects the increased weight of the tray as it fills or uses ultra sound or light to detect the the water level. Your challenge will be to comprehend what is used in your unit either by reading its repair manual or by opening the unit and making an inspection. In either case you will then be able to infer how it is failing to work properly. Sensor replacement or adjustment would be the next course of action.

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  • Thank you Michael. I will check this out. Thanks again – John Parker Jun 30 '17 at 1:19

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