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We are beginning a project to tile the master bathroom. The local tile shop where we are purchasing the tile is recommending a urethane-based grout (specifically Bostik TruColor Pre-Mixed Grout). I am sure there are other brands as well. It is like 4x the cost of traditional grout, but apparently has better characteristics like anti-mold, cracking, fading, etc. There is no need to seal the grout as well.

Does anyone have any experience working with these grouts? Apparently they are newer and have not been around too long, how are they holding up? Is this newer product catching on or is it still too new to tell? I can afford the cost, but is it really worth it?

UPDATE: A few more facts. We are not going to be installing this ourselves for various reasons. We have not yet contacted our installer to see if he has used it, and what his preference is. We will do so and I will report what he recommends as well.

  • Question: What size tile are you using? Sanded or unsanded? Opinion: Any grout pre mixed alot of tile guys aren't really a fan of. Grout is grout really and how well you mix and float it on is your out come also how well you install the tile as well before grout stage. Answer: no its to much money to spend on grout that's already mixed. – Mark Jan 17 '12 at 16:50
  • 12x12 mainly, but with some clipped corners and a sheet of 4 1x1 tiles on those corners. So more grout than just a normal single tile layout. – mohlsen Jan 18 '12 at 3:56
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    I've used it on walls and floor in bathroom. Liked it. Easy to apply. Easy to clean off the urethane film from the tile. However, in a couple of localized places I didn't pack it tightly enough into the grout channel (near a soap niche) and it has disintegrated. That was totally my fault. It must be packed hard and tight with an epoxy float. The problem is, you cannot buy a little container of this stuff to repair a small area, not at this time at least (Q1 2015). You have to buy a 9-pound container, so it will cost you about $90 with shipping, to fix an area of 6 square inches! – mr blint Feb 26 '15 at 16:49
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I, and many tile pros, aren't fans of the pre-mixed urethane grouts. Again, they're newer products. There's two downsides to the urethane grouts I looked at. The first is that the dry time before water exposure is something like seven days ... again, this is the last time I looked at it, and that might have changed. The urethane grouts are supposedly easy to clean, HOWEVER, every tile guy I've talked to has said it's not a product for newbies.

I haven't worked with them personally, because my go-to is Spectralock by Laticrete. Spectralock is an epoxy grout, and can be had at Lowe's or through your tile supplier. You mix two parts goo with one part colored sand, and you get a very consistent and easy to apply grout. You have to pay careful attention to the setup time and the cleaning instructions, though, because they will leave a haze on your tile as the epoxy sets up if you don't clean promptly, and it sets up quickly.

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I've used sanded urethane grout from StarQuartz and Bostik for floor, dry-area wall, and in-shower tile wall. Walls joints (bone color) are about 5mm and floor joints (ash gray color) are 8mm. It has held up quite well for about six years so far.

It must be mixed, slowly, with a hand trowel, not a hand drill, so as not to entrain air bubbles.

It must be applied with an epoxy float and packed hard into the joints. If you are not exhausted and don't have beads of sweat rolling down your face after doing nine square feet, you've been slacking off.

In one very small area in the shower, between soap dishes, I did not pack it as tightly as it should have been, and it is crumbling from a few joints there. Everywhere else, it is fine. Obtaining a small amount to repair that six-inch area is proving to be very difficult. It's sold by the gallon.

Although the urethane product is advertised as having, unlike cementitious grouts, a minute amount of flex to it, the flex is not enough to handle the flexing at change in plane between floor and wall. Use water-proof matching-color caulk there.

Haze clean up is easy and not time-sensitive, as it is with epoxy. I purposely left a test panel haze on for a week, and it cleaned off very easily with a non-scratch scrubby pad and the haze-cutting solution provided by the manufacturer. It's a tiny bottle, about 3 ounces, and it is added to 5 gallons of water.

Do not clean it with enzymatic cleaners. SoftScrub has worked well.

Would I do it again? Probably not in the shower. Yes on the floor and dry wall areas. In the shower, I would use epoxy grout, but only after some practice runs on a test-panel, so see what I was up against in terms of removing the epoxy haze. Epoxy would allow a wider choice in cleaning products.

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I've been doing tile work for about 13 years along with many different renovation skill sets. I have to say that urethane grout is the worst type of grout I have ever used.

I recently did an entire bath with Bostik white. Needless to say that it sure as hell wasn't white. Applying it to the floor wasn't that bad, but you could only do a small area because of the 5 minute window to wipe it up. Otherwise it would bond to the tile like glue. Never had that problem with sanded/unsanded grout. The worst was putting it on the shower walls. More ended up on the floor than the wall. And the texture & color looked like light colored cinder block mortar. It looked hideous. Had white ice tile with the ugliest joints because the urethane didn't hold the pigment. I mixed it several times and the pigment would rise to the top after while. Mixed it again, same results.

I don't like to work harder than I have to. Especially on such a simple task like grouting. They claim that it doesn't have to be sealed or hardly ever cleaned. I ain't gonna hold my breath on that. So, it certainly is not worth the money due to working with it is a royal p.i.t.a. & it doesn't look like a typical unsanded grout joint. I could have done 3 baths with normal grout in the time I did the one with urethane.

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